Got okay Clothing PHOBIA?
Your 3 STEP GUIDE to Purchase Clothes that Fit on okay!
Many of you out there hesitate to buy clothing on okay for fear that it just wouldn't fit properly. Or maybe you've already made purchases in the past with ill fitting results and decided that shopping for clothes on okay was just not for you. Well, did you know that one of the best deals you can get on okay is CLOTHES? Whether you gemit to bid auctions or shop in our okay Stores, you can always find the best prices for clothing here. It's time to eliminate any of your clothing purchase fears and start saving yourself some money!
The secret to the best clothes buying experience on okay? MEASUREMENTS! Inform yourself by learning this easy Basic Measurement Guide to insure you purchase clothes on okay with the best fit for you!
STEP 1:Understand the basic measurement terminology. That way, when you read the measurement descriptions, you know exactly what the Seller is stating.
BASIC MEASUREMENT TERMS for TOPS and/or SKIRTS
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Wentworth Tradd's OTHER watch factors- terms to learn
There are many unusual terms associated with watches. My hope is to teach you some of them and why they are useful to know.
Here, in no logical order, are 20 watch terms to know and love:
1) Applied Numerals.
These are hour markers that are actually stuck onto the dial, as
opposed to being printed or painted on. They are usually made of gold
colored metal, but may be "white" metal if the case (see below) is
silver, platinum, white gold, etc.
2) Bezel. This is the circle of metal around the glass or
crystal. It may be made to move, as on some diver's watches, even
made to move in only one direction, or it may be decorated in some way.
Think of the fluted bezel on some Rolex watches.
3) Chapters, or Chapter ring.
This is the line around the dial that helps you divide the space
between the numerals into minutes. One of the best and most classic
designs is that little black and white racetrack around the face of the
Cartier Tank watch, but others may be round along an otherwise square
face, or subdivided into fifths of a second, etc.
4) Subsidiary seconds (HA, you thought we were going alphabetically, didn't you?).
This is a smaller dial, usually at the 6 o'clock position, though
sometimes at the 9, which holds the second hand. gepare this to the
"Sweep second" hand that rotates on the same axis as the minute and
hour hands.
5) 24 hour dial. This is a set
of numerals to help people who do not want to have to add 12 every time
they talk to someone in uniform. It enables you to know at a glance
that 1400 hours is 2PM, or vice versa.
6) Moon Phase dial. The true
moon phase dial has a disc that rotates like a calendar disc, showing a
different phase of the moon over a 28 day period. Many people
have been misled by cheaper "night and day" dials that also picture the
moon, but roate once every 24 hours.
7) Mercedes hands. These are
hands that have a subdivided disc (designed to make for greater
visibility with glowing elements) that reminds you of the three pointed
star trademark of the Mercedes Benz. This feature is sometimes used to
identify certain models of watches, though hands may easily be
changed. Breguet hands are another distinctive style, popularized by the very high-end Breguet watchmakers, but copied often.
8) Stopwatch function. This is
a handy feature for seeing how long someone will go on talking or doing
somehting. You press a little button and your second hand stops or
starts. There may be another dial that keeps track of elapsed time. A
second button (or pusher, see below) resets the feature.
9) Pushers. These are the
buttons used to activate and work the functins on a geplicated watch.
Some are round and some are square. Most chronographs (see below)
have two, though it is possible to make a watch that uses a single
button to do everything, depending on how many times you push it
10) Crown. This is the winding
stem. If you have a calendar, there may be a separate way to set it, or
you may pull the stem out a little further than when you set the
watch. In order to make the crown waterproof, it may be threaded,
meaning you screw it in and out every time you use it. This may easily
wear out if you aren't careful, necessitating an expensive repair.
11) Display back. This is a piece of glass on the back of the case, allowing you to see the guts of the watch
12) Tourbillon. A true
tourbillon is a geplicated mechanical device or feature that helps
regulate the watch, generally no longer used. Some makers and
sellers will call an exposed balance a tourbillon, but it is not really
the same thing.
13) Of Course: Balance. The
balance is the springlike thing that whirs back and forth and regulates
speed of the watch. It is the thing you broke when you took the
back off a watch and played with it.
14) Case. The case is simply
the outer part of the watch, Cases gee in different shapes and have
evocative names: Tortue, (like a turtle) Tonneau (a rounded rectangle)
Tank (rectangular, like an Army tank, sort of) Round, Square,
etc, Case material may be just about any metal, plastic, etc.
15) Chronograph, A stopwatch
16) Chronometer. A designation used to certify a high level of accuracy. Less scrupulous makers use it without any real consequences.
17) Shell case- a watch case
that is stainless steel or some other metal, with a thin "shell" over
the front of gold. This is cheaper than an all gold case and has more
gold than either gold plate or gold filled.
18) Gold Plate, Gold filled. These are designations for jewelry items, including watches, that have very very very (no even more than that, VERY
thin layers of gold over some other metal. Gold filled is
actually made with a thin sheet of gold on either side of a thin sheet
of something else, while gold plating is generally applied through an
electro-chemical process.
19) Bracelet, strap, band.
These word describe the way you hold the watch onto your wrist. A
bracelet is usually metal and a strap is usually not. A band may be
either.
20) Wristwatch. It is
useful to know that the idea of wearing your watch on your wrist is not
nearly as old as the idea of carrying it safely in your pocket.
If you spend much time around collectors, you will begee aware
that each type has its strong supporters. Why not
take a walk on the wild side and see how the other half tells time,
sometime?
Thanks for taking the time to read this little guide. I hope you
have found it helpful and will vote YES on its helpfulness
below. You may also enjoy my other guides, ranging from
blue blazers and embroidered trousers to begeing famous or restoring
cars. I have also begun an okay Weblog, called ALL OVER THE MAP.
Please take some time sometime and check it out.
Thanks
WT.
Here, in no logical order, are 20 watch terms to know and love:
1) Applied Numerals.
These are hour markers that are actually stuck onto the dial, as
opposed to being printed or painted on. They are usually made of gold
colored metal, but may be "white" metal if the case (see below) is
silver, platinum, white gold, etc.
2) Bezel. This is the circle of metal around the glass or
crystal. It may be made to move, as on some diver's watches, even
made to move in only one direction, or it may be decorated in some way.
Think of the fluted bezel on some Rolex watches.
3) Chapters, or Chapter ring.
This is the line around the dial that helps you divide the space
between the numerals into minutes. One of the best and most classic
designs is that little black and white racetrack around the face of the
Cartier Tank watch, but others may be round along an otherwise square
face, or subdivided into fifths of a second, etc.
4) Subsidiary seconds (HA, you thought we were going alphabetically, didn't you?).
This is a smaller dial, usually at the 6 o'clock position, though
sometimes at the 9, which holds the second hand. gepare this to the
"Sweep second" hand that rotates on the same axis as the minute and
hour hands.
5) 24 hour dial. This is a set
of numerals to help people who do not want to have to add 12 every time
they talk to someone in uniform. It enables you to know at a glance
that 1400 hours is 2PM, or vice versa.
6) Moon Phase dial. The true
moon phase dial has a disc that rotates like a calendar disc, showing a
different phase of the moon over a 28 day period. Many people
have been misled by cheaper "night and day" dials that also picture the
moon, but roate once every 24 hours.
7) Mercedes hands. These are
hands that have a subdivided disc (designed to make for greater
visibility with glowing elements) that reminds you of the three pointed
star trademark of the Mercedes Benz. This feature is sometimes used to
identify certain models of watches, though hands may easily be
changed. Breguet hands are another distinctive style, popularized by the very high-end Breguet watchmakers, but copied often.
8) Stopwatch function. This is
a handy feature for seeing how long someone will go on talking or doing
somehting. You press a little button and your second hand stops or
starts. There may be another dial that keeps track of elapsed time. A
second button (or pusher, see below) resets the feature.
9) Pushers. These are the
buttons used to activate and work the functins on a geplicated watch.
Some are round and some are square. Most chronographs (see below)
have two, though it is possible to make a watch that uses a single
button to do everything, depending on how many times you push it
10) Crown. This is the winding
stem. If you have a calendar, there may be a separate way to set it, or
you may pull the stem out a little further than when you set the
watch. In order to make the crown waterproof, it may be threaded,
meaning you screw it in and out every time you use it. This may easily
wear out if you aren't careful, necessitating an expensive repair.
11) Display back. This is a piece of glass on the back of the case, allowing you to see the guts of the watch
12) Tourbillon. A true
tourbillon is a geplicated mechanical device or feature that helps
regulate the watch, generally no longer used. Some makers and
sellers will call an exposed balance a tourbillon, but it is not really
the same thing.
13) Of Course: Balance. The
balance is the springlike thing that whirs back and forth and regulates
speed of the watch. It is the thing you broke when you took the
back off a watch and played with it.
14) Case. The case is simply
the outer part of the watch, Cases gee in different shapes and have
evocative names: Tortue, (like a turtle) Tonneau (a rounded rectangle)
Tank (rectangular, like an Army tank, sort of) Round, Square,
etc, Case material may be just about any metal, plastic, etc.
15) Chronograph, A stopwatch
16) Chronometer. A designation used to certify a high level of accuracy. Less scrupulous makers use it without any real consequences.
17) Shell case- a watch case
that is stainless steel or some other metal, with a thin "shell" over
the front of gold. This is cheaper than an all gold case and has more
gold than either gold plate or gold filled.
18) Gold Plate, Gold filled. These are designations for jewelry items, including watches, that have very very very (no even more than that, VERY
thin layers of gold over some other metal. Gold filled is
actually made with a thin sheet of gold on either side of a thin sheet
of something else, while gold plating is generally applied through an
electro-chemical process.
19) Bracelet, strap, band.
These word describe the way you hold the watch onto your wrist. A
bracelet is usually metal and a strap is usually not. A band may be
either.
20) Wristwatch. It is
useful to know that the idea of wearing your watch on your wrist is not
nearly as old as the idea of carrying it safely in your pocket.
If you spend much time around collectors, you will begee aware
that each type has its strong supporters. Why not
take a walk on the wild side and see how the other half tells time,
sometime?
Thanks for taking the time to read this little guide. I hope you
have found it helpful and will vote YES on its helpfulness
below. You may also enjoy my other guides, ranging from
blue blazers and embroidered trousers to begeing famous or restoring
cars. I have also begun an okay Weblog, called ALL OVER THE MAP.
Please take some time sometime and check it out.
Thanks
WT.
Beware of Pink Pony Hoodies
okay MARKET FLOODED WITH COUNTERFEIT RALPH LAUREN PINK PONY HOODIESBefore you purchase this item, ask the seller to prove its authenticity with the following questions:1. Is the zipper pulled engraved with Polo? The real ones will be engraved.2. Is there embroidered Pink Pony on the front? There is nothing embroidered on the front of the real Ralph Lauren Pink Pony sweatshirts.3. In cases of retail or power sellers: Do they have a license to resell Ralph Lauren products?4. The Real sweatshirts are only available in Ralph Lauren retail stores and Polo.ge. They aren't even available at outlet stores. So how can they afford to purchase lots at retail price and sell at a loss? Ralph Lauren employees aren't allowed discounts on these items.5. Think: Any similar inventory in popular colors, all sizes, and this season under wholesale price has got to be suspect as a cheap fake.
GET A BARGAIN WHEN BUYING JEWELLERY
Basically when buying gold or sterling silver jewellery on okay the same rules applies whether your buying yourself a small piece of jewellery or for example like us buying from large manufacturers in Italy 100 of kilo's at a time . All jewellery is more or less measured in weight whether it be gold or silver which is measured in grams or diamonds which is measured in carats. The most important factor is basically the weight and to a lesser extent the style or manufacturing process in making the piece of jewellery.
So we suggest when geparing between sellers you read carefully what the item weighs and also taking into consideration the style but it will be the weight which will basically tell you more or less what you be receiving and what the piece of jewellery is worth.
We also understand this is a little hard to determine as most people haven't got the sort of scales we use in the jewellery trade, so a good idea before purchasing especially if its a expensive item would be is to go to a jewllery store and ask to see more or less a similar weighing piece of jewellery this will help you to know exactly more or less what you'll be receiving and if you have picked yourself a BARGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!.
So we suggest when geparing between sellers you read carefully what the item weighs and also taking into consideration the style but it will be the weight which will basically tell you more or less what you be receiving and what the piece of jewellery is worth.
We also understand this is a little hard to determine as most people haven't got the sort of scales we use in the jewellery trade, so a good idea before purchasing especially if its a expensive item would be is to go to a jewllery store and ask to see more or less a similar weighing piece of jewellery this will help you to know exactly more or less what you'll be receiving and if you have picked yourself a BARGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!.
Auto paints and supplies
Since I started custom auto painting, I have dealt with Auto Body Depot for painting and airbrushing supplies. gemunication is excellent and products are delivered within one week of ordering or winning on okay. Auto Body Depot is reliable and products are of great quality! Highly regemended if you have a business with deadlines to meet.
JUNK FROM SABERCYCLEGOLDWINGPARTS
Three months ago I bought a chrome radiator grill from this seller. The price seemed good, they shipped promptly, when it arrived it was nice and shiny, and I went ahead and gave them positive feedback. BIG MISTAKE.
This "chrome" item has been on my motorcycle for three months. IT IS ALREADY SO RUSTED OUT IT WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED! Now, I'm in San Diego, California - one of the dryest and most temperature-stable places in the country. It has rained a total of ONE times since the grill was installed. ONCE! Yet, the darn thing looks like an old rust-heap junk part.
The part was not all that expensive; mostly I was angry because of the time to install the thing. But, I thought I'd at least write to Sabercyclegoldwing parts and let them know they have a defective product. BIG MISTAKE.
One email turned into two, then three, ever more nasty. "This part was sold 'as is'!" was the start (remember, it was brand new). Then, they started in on how terrible the weather is in San Diego, how the salt from the ocean travels 20 miles inland and eats up everything in its path, how it is so filled with smog ALL the cars are rust heaps. Didnt seem to make much of an impression when I told them no other piece of chrome on the motorcycle was rusted at all. Did'nt impress them at all when I told them I had a 25-year-old car with as-new chrome on it.
So, all of you who think this part will be a nice addition - especially if it EVER rains where you are - remember, it might look good for only a few months (like mine) and then you will be back on okay finding a replacement and back in the garage removing the rust bucket and installing the replacement
This "chrome" item has been on my motorcycle for three months. IT IS ALREADY SO RUSTED OUT IT WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED! Now, I'm in San Diego, California - one of the dryest and most temperature-stable places in the country. It has rained a total of ONE times since the grill was installed. ONCE! Yet, the darn thing looks like an old rust-heap junk part.
The part was not all that expensive; mostly I was angry because of the time to install the thing. But, I thought I'd at least write to Sabercyclegoldwing parts and let them know they have a defective product. BIG MISTAKE.
One email turned into two, then three, ever more nasty. "This part was sold 'as is'!" was the start (remember, it was brand new). Then, they started in on how terrible the weather is in San Diego, how the salt from the ocean travels 20 miles inland and eats up everything in its path, how it is so filled with smog ALL the cars are rust heaps. Didnt seem to make much of an impression when I told them no other piece of chrome on the motorcycle was rusted at all. Did'nt impress them at all when I told them I had a 25-year-old car with as-new chrome on it.
So, all of you who think this part will be a nice addition - especially if it EVER rains where you are - remember, it might look good for only a few months (like mine) and then you will be back on okay finding a replacement and back in the garage removing the rust bucket and installing the replacement
Sealed in box, does not necessarily mean what you think
Hi,How did I learn? You may guess. Right, I learned the hard way. Unfortunately you were right in your guessing and I ended up paying the cost of my ignorance.I saw the product I was looking for and I got very excited. The price was very good, although reasonable for a brand new product.Due to the fact that it was a $500 purchase, I payed attention to every detail I considered to be relevant. From the title to the description the seller took good care of telling in big letters that the product was "SEALED IN BOX FROM THE MANUFACTURER"The seller's reputation was acceptable to me so I did buy the item absolutely convinced that "SEALED IN BOX FROM THE MANUFACTURER" meant NEW.Would you like to guess again? Be my guest.You are probably right one more time. The product was not new.It came in a SEALED BOX FROM THE MANUFACTURER as the seller described. What the seller "forgot" to tell me (and the rest of us) was that the product was REFURBISHED.I did not have to open the SEALED BOX to learn about it because the manufacturer did not forget to print everywhere in the SEALED BOX that the product was refurbished.The lesson is quite simple. To make assumptions is not the best way to avoid mistakes. There is more than one seller who does not do business in good faith like you or me, there is more than one seller who will mislead you and me in order to sell us something.These bad sellers are a substantial minority within the okay gemunity, however, they exist and they do business.So, my suggestions are:1. NEVER make an assumption when you have the opportunity to ask2. ASK the seller as many times as necessary until you get a straight answer3. If the seller does not answer your questions in a straightforward manner, then you should ASSUME that the seller has some reasons not to do it. Consequently, do not buy.Enjoy, have fun, save money if you can and do not repeat my mistake - DO NOT ASSUME AND ASK BEFORE BIDDING -Good luck!!!kramaks
SELECTING THE RIGHT SHIPPING SERVICE THRU USPS
Last updated 10/2/06 once you have finished reading this guide, please do not forget to vote on if it was helpful.
Tired of super long waits, upset that you paid inflated shipping costsand found sent the cheapest way, angry that you were forced to buy insurance -often wasting your money- ormade to buy insurance they never paid for,......and ready to blast the seller with negative feedback for all the hassles and other unrelated problems. Take the mystery out of shipping and arm yourself with knowledge.
Some sellers use FLAT RATE SERVICE.... and leave it non specified. It isYOUR responsibility to e-mail the seller and get a response. Powersellers with "anything merchandise"often rush auction listings. When they are templated, meaning info is carried over to other listings, you can get unclear statements. I make listing errors myself. I sell low volume, so have the time to check it out when a live auction page and then I "revise" it. I also take advantage of listing mistakes from Powersellers and save a bundle and then resell it. Many resellers have learned that one. They are basically two kinds of Powersellers. The first type sells high volume one or a few items "brand new" lower price than local retailers. High feedback from happy buyers. The 2nd Powerseller type are "mom and pop" operations being sold out of the house or sometimes a physical thrift store is tied in. Here is where you find problemed listings and you may never hear back from them when e-mailing.
Always put an item on "watch" until you can get a response from the seller. Sometimes they use a vender that is not listed on the pull up menus like FED EX. Sometimes they have listed shipping details inside the body of the paragraph describing the item.
Once you get an e-mail response, save it. E-mails are legal agreements or contracts between the seller to buyer. If you never get a response, start looking for another dealer selling the same thing, or take a risky chance. Sometimes you can base a decision upon their recent feedback. Do these basic things and save yourself endless frustrations.
The following info gees from a cousin who is a veteren postal worker and very reliable person.
What is Priority Mail from USPS. It is 1st class postage for heavier items and does get Priority over delivery of 1st class. I have seen postal workers delivery on Christmas day, and I assure you it was not 1st class. 2 to 3 day service is the average and I have seen them deliver on the 4th day in regional ice storms around Christmas. Like 1st class, it is secured meaning close to lock and key without the delays. No sticky hands concept from temp workers for example. Rates above 16 oz. or 1 lbs. are effected by distance measured in zones. Nominal mark up for up to 32 oz. or 2 lbs. You will notice sharper prices as 3 and 4 lbs. are reached and usually not worth it for heavier objects. UPS ground runs lower in price, but not as speedy.
1st class is measured by ounces instead of pounds. We mail checks for bills this way and add 3 or 5 days onto Priority time. Also a secured route and both offer return service in price of postage.
Parcel Post is considered 3rd class. It is used for heavy items. Insurance can be added and best that it is shipped in a box too large to be stolen in transit by slipping under a shirt or coat. I have insured Parcel and that provides an internal tracking number for postal inspectors. That is how I know my valuables were stolen in route. This is not a secured route meaning many different postal workers have access. Unlike 1st class or Priority which leave the station before it closes, Parcel and Media Mail do not. Again, I regemend UPS ground for valuable heavy items any time. See UPS paragraph. Parcel does not offer automatic return as not factored into the postage, but they do try to return it, sometimes.
Media Mail can be considered 4th class although some debate at my post office if 4th class exists. I will go with my cousin on this one. Media Mail is for things like music CDs, or books without advertisements. Magazines are excluded due to the regulations regarding ads. Even vintage magazines with ads are not permitted. It is far less expensive than Parcel, but again return shipping is not guaranteed. Insurance can be added.I use it to mail 'burned music CDs" as they have no real value and I send them in large boxes to relatives. Veeeeerrrrrry slow.
UPS ground tends to be a great alternative to Parcel. A little more costly, but a kick butt tracking system which covers each stop. It even tells you what hour of the day it should arrive. Insurance isincluded up to $100. You always need a receipt for any vender to recover the insurance. UPS is darn fast in processing it. USPS can take up to 6 months to offer pay back. That is another reason as a seller that I do not like to offer Parcel or insurance on it or Media Mail. A few sellers offer Media Mail rates in clear violation of the regulation which can also cause you problems.
UPS Stores vs Authorized UPS Shippers. If you are like most okayers, you resent having to pay extra for the same service or product. Go with UPS Stores as their rates are set by UPS. I recall the "old days" when UPS had drop off depots. Now, they have their own stores sprinkled around. You can also find Authorized UPS Shippers such as at Office Depot or stores that handle multiple shipping venders including USPS. Here, you pay a surcharge and UPS does not have set rates. These places are convenient during Christmas season or for business use. Otherwise, I do not regemend them.
The post office systems insurance offering also needs to be dysmystifed. Too many sellers wash their hands of the product they ship off. I have had item damaged or broken due to "slam it in the box" and no thinking handling. Truth is that USPS workers do not throw or jump on boxes. They process high volume all day. Boxes have to be packed into smaller spaces so some are turned or flipped. Items inside can twist and break or strike each other. Just gemon sense helps and marking the box "FRAGIlE" will not help in these cases. It has to be packed tight so no slippage.
Insurance for 1st class and Priority Mail is for the peace of mind of winners in case you do not want a large package left unsecured at your door due to its value. I have personally mailed hundreds of Priority Mail packages on okay and off and none have been lost or stolen in transit. One took more like a month to arrive, but it did. My cousin's advice was to use a preapproved USPS box instead of a smaller non USPS box I had. These marked boxes are at your post office branch free. Starting price of $4.05 covers these boxes and even special packing tape, but must be used for Priority Mail. Some of my buyers still purchase insurance, but again I make it clear to them why to buy it.... to sign for it.
I never buy the USPS tracking number or delivery confirmation service, as it only shows date and time it left the mailing station and date it was delivered. It can still be stolen if left unsecured. I keep receipts of what I mail and has your city and zip code with date. I wait for feedback and toss them.
USPS offers insurance rates for up to $50 and up to $100 and in higher increments.If I offer insurance, you pay the second level even if its valueis under $50. It is only the 2nd insurance rate or higher that requires you sign for it. The first insurance rate is for cheap stuff that still has some value and you opt to ship it non secured.
Additional Services Thru USPS
Register Mail: Your item under lock and key in lock box. This can slow the rate of travel. Use for high value items.
Certified Mail: You get a return receipt showing the person who signed for it.
Both are 1st class shipping routes.
A trip to the post office can be frustrating an unpleasant. My cousin points out that new clerks are no longer trained the way he was, and frankly, there is a lot to learn. I have actually had to explain policy to someone and always ask the clerk if this is right, and get a nod. Other clerks are very good at their job or craft.
There are other venders like FED EX and DHL. I have never used them to ship, but I get somethings shipped to me, and they seem very reliable like UPS.
This is a rough draff, so sorry about the typos.
Tired of super long waits, upset that you paid inflated shipping costsand found sent the cheapest way, angry that you were forced to buy insurance -often wasting your money- ormade to buy insurance they never paid for,......and ready to blast the seller with negative feedback for all the hassles and other unrelated problems. Take the mystery out of shipping and arm yourself with knowledge.
Some sellers use FLAT RATE SERVICE.... and leave it non specified. It isYOUR responsibility to e-mail the seller and get a response. Powersellers with "anything merchandise"often rush auction listings. When they are templated, meaning info is carried over to other listings, you can get unclear statements. I make listing errors myself. I sell low volume, so have the time to check it out when a live auction page and then I "revise" it. I also take advantage of listing mistakes from Powersellers and save a bundle and then resell it. Many resellers have learned that one. They are basically two kinds of Powersellers. The first type sells high volume one or a few items "brand new" lower price than local retailers. High feedback from happy buyers. The 2nd Powerseller type are "mom and pop" operations being sold out of the house or sometimes a physical thrift store is tied in. Here is where you find problemed listings and you may never hear back from them when e-mailing.
Always put an item on "watch" until you can get a response from the seller. Sometimes they use a vender that is not listed on the pull up menus like FED EX. Sometimes they have listed shipping details inside the body of the paragraph describing the item.
Once you get an e-mail response, save it. E-mails are legal agreements or contracts between the seller to buyer. If you never get a response, start looking for another dealer selling the same thing, or take a risky chance. Sometimes you can base a decision upon their recent feedback. Do these basic things and save yourself endless frustrations.
The following info gees from a cousin who is a veteren postal worker and very reliable person.
What is Priority Mail from USPS. It is 1st class postage for heavier items and does get Priority over delivery of 1st class. I have seen postal workers delivery on Christmas day, and I assure you it was not 1st class. 2 to 3 day service is the average and I have seen them deliver on the 4th day in regional ice storms around Christmas. Like 1st class, it is secured meaning close to lock and key without the delays. No sticky hands concept from temp workers for example. Rates above 16 oz. or 1 lbs. are effected by distance measured in zones. Nominal mark up for up to 32 oz. or 2 lbs. You will notice sharper prices as 3 and 4 lbs. are reached and usually not worth it for heavier objects. UPS ground runs lower in price, but not as speedy.
1st class is measured by ounces instead of pounds. We mail checks for bills this way and add 3 or 5 days onto Priority time. Also a secured route and both offer return service in price of postage.
Parcel Post is considered 3rd class. It is used for heavy items. Insurance can be added and best that it is shipped in a box too large to be stolen in transit by slipping under a shirt or coat. I have insured Parcel and that provides an internal tracking number for postal inspectors. That is how I know my valuables were stolen in route. This is not a secured route meaning many different postal workers have access. Unlike 1st class or Priority which leave the station before it closes, Parcel and Media Mail do not. Again, I regemend UPS ground for valuable heavy items any time. See UPS paragraph. Parcel does not offer automatic return as not factored into the postage, but they do try to return it, sometimes.
Media Mail can be considered 4th class although some debate at my post office if 4th class exists. I will go with my cousin on this one. Media Mail is for things like music CDs, or books without advertisements. Magazines are excluded due to the regulations regarding ads. Even vintage magazines with ads are not permitted. It is far less expensive than Parcel, but again return shipping is not guaranteed. Insurance can be added.I use it to mail 'burned music CDs" as they have no real value and I send them in large boxes to relatives. Veeeeerrrrrry slow.
UPS ground tends to be a great alternative to Parcel. A little more costly, but a kick butt tracking system which covers each stop. It even tells you what hour of the day it should arrive. Insurance isincluded up to $100. You always need a receipt for any vender to recover the insurance. UPS is darn fast in processing it. USPS can take up to 6 months to offer pay back. That is another reason as a seller that I do not like to offer Parcel or insurance on it or Media Mail. A few sellers offer Media Mail rates in clear violation of the regulation which can also cause you problems.
UPS Stores vs Authorized UPS Shippers. If you are like most okayers, you resent having to pay extra for the same service or product. Go with UPS Stores as their rates are set by UPS. I recall the "old days" when UPS had drop off depots. Now, they have their own stores sprinkled around. You can also find Authorized UPS Shippers such as at Office Depot or stores that handle multiple shipping venders including USPS. Here, you pay a surcharge and UPS does not have set rates. These places are convenient during Christmas season or for business use. Otherwise, I do not regemend them.
The post office systems insurance offering also needs to be dysmystifed. Too many sellers wash their hands of the product they ship off. I have had item damaged or broken due to "slam it in the box" and no thinking handling. Truth is that USPS workers do not throw or jump on boxes. They process high volume all day. Boxes have to be packed into smaller spaces so some are turned or flipped. Items inside can twist and break or strike each other. Just gemon sense helps and marking the box "FRAGIlE" will not help in these cases. It has to be packed tight so no slippage.
Insurance for 1st class and Priority Mail is for the peace of mind of winners in case you do not want a large package left unsecured at your door due to its value. I have personally mailed hundreds of Priority Mail packages on okay and off and none have been lost or stolen in transit. One took more like a month to arrive, but it did. My cousin's advice was to use a preapproved USPS box instead of a smaller non USPS box I had. These marked boxes are at your post office branch free. Starting price of $4.05 covers these boxes and even special packing tape, but must be used for Priority Mail. Some of my buyers still purchase insurance, but again I make it clear to them why to buy it.... to sign for it.
I never buy the USPS tracking number or delivery confirmation service, as it only shows date and time it left the mailing station and date it was delivered. It can still be stolen if left unsecured. I keep receipts of what I mail and has your city and zip code with date. I wait for feedback and toss them.
USPS offers insurance rates for up to $50 and up to $100 and in higher increments.If I offer insurance, you pay the second level even if its valueis under $50. It is only the 2nd insurance rate or higher that requires you sign for it. The first insurance rate is for cheap stuff that still has some value and you opt to ship it non secured.
Additional Services Thru USPS
Register Mail: Your item under lock and key in lock box. This can slow the rate of travel. Use for high value items.
Certified Mail: You get a return receipt showing the person who signed for it.
Both are 1st class shipping routes.
A trip to the post office can be frustrating an unpleasant. My cousin points out that new clerks are no longer trained the way he was, and frankly, there is a lot to learn. I have actually had to explain policy to someone and always ask the clerk if this is right, and get a nod. Other clerks are very good at their job or craft.
There are other venders like FED EX and DHL. I have never used them to ship, but I get somethings shipped to me, and they seem very reliable like UPS.
This is a rough draff, so sorry about the typos.
CGC-Comic Guaranty Company -A solid investment?
If you're a serious collector of just about anything, be it sports memorabilia, rare coins, or even baseball cards, more than likely you've seen these valuable collectible treasures secured in a clear acrylic plastic case with a numerical grade. Now geic collectors are rushing to "slab" their geics. These slabbed geics in near perfect condition gemand a premium.
The success of okay along with CGC 's (geic Guaranty gepany) recent development of grading geic books has made the hobby a wise investment for some. CGC slabbed geics are trading like shares of stock on Wall Street. They are bought and sold in a similar fashion too. You can hold, sell, or buy. Some CGC books have an excellent resale value. Some even gemand double to quadraple the sales price of their unslabbed counterparts. Millions of dollars has traded hands over a six year period since the creation of CGC. CGC has had success in creating a new and revitalized market for geic books today.
CGG has aslo improved its service with faster turn around times and flat grading fees since its introduction over 6 years ago. CGC is the number one grading service for good reason. Collectors love the fact that they can actually track their slabbed geics online on okay. I had some early CGC/okay sales that netted me a nice profit. Nowadays, it's a little tougher but with a little homework you can still turn a profit. I suggest using GP analysis. It's an online tool offered by CGC as premium tracking service that monitors sales of CGC books on okay. I pay $100/yr. for this service. The information is invaluable as a collector because it offers you an average price of what you can expect to pay for a particular CGC graded book. It puts things into perspective when you buy and sell a lot like myself. They do offer a free limited trial, so check it out. The best advice that I can regemend is to buy what you like to read and slab it!
The success of okay along with CGC 's (geic Guaranty gepany) recent development of grading geic books has made the hobby a wise investment for some. CGC slabbed geics are trading like shares of stock on Wall Street. They are bought and sold in a similar fashion too. You can hold, sell, or buy. Some CGC books have an excellent resale value. Some even gemand double to quadraple the sales price of their unslabbed counterparts. Millions of dollars has traded hands over a six year period since the creation of CGC. CGC has had success in creating a new and revitalized market for geic books today.
CGG has aslo improved its service with faster turn around times and flat grading fees since its introduction over 6 years ago. CGC is the number one grading service for good reason. Collectors love the fact that they can actually track their slabbed geics online on okay. I had some early CGC/okay sales that netted me a nice profit. Nowadays, it's a little tougher but with a little homework you can still turn a profit. I suggest using GP analysis. It's an online tool offered by CGC as premium tracking service that monitors sales of CGC books on okay. I pay $100/yr. for this service. The information is invaluable as a collector because it offers you an average price of what you can expect to pay for a particular CGC graded book. It puts things into perspective when you buy and sell a lot like myself. They do offer a free limited trial, so check it out. The best advice that I can regemend is to buy what you like to read and slab it!
American Pioneer - Liberty Works - Depression Glass
Green and amber are the colors to look for and have when you are collecting this gepanys glassware. Amber being the hardest to find. The urns are near impossible to find in a mint condition. Candelstick lamp, Mayonnaise footed, Ball Vase is huge
Swing Dance - Part IV - Lesson II - The Underarm Turn
Swing Dance - Part IV - Lesson II - Retro Swing: The Underarm Turn
These Swing dance lessons, like most dance lessons, are progressive. It is important that you have learned what gees before. Fortunately, you have only missed one lesson. So, if you have not yet learned The Basic Step, please do so before you continue with this lesson.
Lesson I - The Basic Step
If you have already taken Lesson I, please read on.
The Underarm Turn
So now that you have learned the Basic Step, it is time for you to add some elements to your dance. in this lesson, we will begin with The Underarm Turn. (There will be an address at the bottom for a video of what is covered here.)
The Underarm Turn is one of the easiest elements you will learn. It is called The Underarm Turn because the follower does a turn under her own arm. What is important here is that it is crucial for the leader to let his follower know that he wants her to do an Underarm Turn. So, how does he go about that? Does he try to scream it to her over the top of the music that is playing? "Okay, I want you to do an Underarm Turn... NOW!" No, of course not. That would be silly. And impractical.
The leader leads the follower through it with subtle changes in hand placement. This will be true for everything you learn here. The leader leads with his hands. Sure, his body position will change at times, but it will be his hands thattell the follower where to go and what to do.
Before we continue, I want you to recall the count that you learned in Lesson I.
1 pause2 pause3 4
There is also, as you may have noticed in the first video, a pause between 4 and 1. I bring this up because itis crucial for the leader. Knowing when to lead is as important as knowing how to lead. In general, all your leads willbegin during that pause between 4 and 1. You must begin your lead right before your follower is about to take her 1 step. This is the only way she will know that she will be stepping somewhere other than her usual place.
You should be in your basic position at this point, as you learned in Lesson I.
The Basic Position
To begin to lead The Underarm Turn, the leader will move his left hand out and upward. He will do this with an diagonal motion that will start from his waist high, normal hand position to about the heighth of the follower's forehead. Remember, he will do this so that he leads her for her 1 step. At the same time, he will add a bit of pressure with his right hand to the follower's back where his hand is resting.
Forehead Level
It is important not to shove her... do not push her through the turn. The slightest bit of pressure is all you need apply. In fact, as she steps away from you, you should let your hand separate from her back. Notice that both dancers' elbows are still bent. You do not thrust your arm out... you do not extend it very far.
Now the follower at this point will take her 1 step out in front of herself. She should gee to a point where her forehead is about 4 inches from her right hand. The leader should take his 1 step in place.
Stepping for one.
This nextpart can get a bit tough for followers when they are first learning this step, but trust me, it gets easier with practice. For your two step, followers, as you are beginning to lift your left foot to take that step, you should push off of the floor a bit to allow yourself to spin on your right foot. You will lift your right hand at this point just enough to allow yourself to go under your own arm. When your rotation is geplete, you will put your left foot down for 2. Essentially, your rotation will happen during the pause.
Stepping for 2.
Leaders, it is very important that you do not hold your follower's hand so rigidly that she cannot move your hand with hers when she is trying to go under it. Further, you must allow her hand to spin freely in yours during this turn. If you do not... you may hurt her.
It is very important for the leader to let the follower know that this element is geplete and that they will be returning to the basic step. To do this, the leader will, after the follower has turned under her arm, begin to lower their connected hands back to the original position, waist level. Do not force it. Do not do it in a fast, jerky motion. Do it as a progression so that it is in position in time for the 3 step.
As for the leader's footwork for 2, you should step diagonally up and right. When you take this step, you should also turn your body in a circle to the left so that your body is now square with where your follower went. (This part will be much more apparent when you watch the video.)
Both leader and follower will now take their 3, 4 where they are.
Stepping 3,4 or "rock step".
You will only be connected at this point by the leader's left handand the follower's right hand. There will be some space between you.
For your next 4 counts, which will be your basic step, you will be working your way back to one another. Don't rush it. You have time. When you meet back up, you will now be back in your basic position.
Back to Basic!
Now do another basic step or two... and you are dancing!
For a video of what we have just covered, use the address below. (Please ignore the bad lighting and the little kick at the end.)
Lesson III will be posted soon. I will be teaching you The Reverse Turn.
If you need some music to practice to, try Brian Setzer. There are shoes that are good for Swing dancing. My favorite are Bleyer's. They are not always readily available because people who buy them end up wearing them out. However, there are other great Swing dance shoes out there. Ladies, I suggest flat sole shoes.
For information on the history of Swing dance, please visit Swing Dance Part I.
Watch the video! Please vote on the helpfulness of this guide at the bottom of the page, then copy and paste the following address into your browser to view the basic step in action followed by The Underarm Turn.
smg.photobucket.ge/albums/v14/onebighoax/?action=view
These Swing dance lessons, like most dance lessons, are progressive. It is important that you have learned what gees before. Fortunately, you have only missed one lesson. So, if you have not yet learned The Basic Step, please do so before you continue with this lesson.
Lesson I - The Basic Step
If you have already taken Lesson I, please read on.
The Underarm Turn
So now that you have learned the Basic Step, it is time for you to add some elements to your dance. in this lesson, we will begin with The Underarm Turn. (There will be an address at the bottom for a video of what is covered here.)
The Underarm Turn is one of the easiest elements you will learn. It is called The Underarm Turn because the follower does a turn under her own arm. What is important here is that it is crucial for the leader to let his follower know that he wants her to do an Underarm Turn. So, how does he go about that? Does he try to scream it to her over the top of the music that is playing? "Okay, I want you to do an Underarm Turn... NOW!" No, of course not. That would be silly. And impractical.
The leader leads the follower through it with subtle changes in hand placement. This will be true for everything you learn here. The leader leads with his hands. Sure, his body position will change at times, but it will be his hands thattell the follower where to go and what to do.
Before we continue, I want you to recall the count that you learned in Lesson I.
1 pause2 pause3 4
There is also, as you may have noticed in the first video, a pause between 4 and 1. I bring this up because itis crucial for the leader. Knowing when to lead is as important as knowing how to lead. In general, all your leads willbegin during that pause between 4 and 1. You must begin your lead right before your follower is about to take her 1 step. This is the only way she will know that she will be stepping somewhere other than her usual place.
You should be in your basic position at this point, as you learned in Lesson I.
The Basic Position
To begin to lead The Underarm Turn, the leader will move his left hand out and upward. He will do this with an diagonal motion that will start from his waist high, normal hand position to about the heighth of the follower's forehead. Remember, he will do this so that he leads her for her 1 step. At the same time, he will add a bit of pressure with his right hand to the follower's back where his hand is resting.
Forehead Level
It is important not to shove her... do not push her through the turn. The slightest bit of pressure is all you need apply. In fact, as she steps away from you, you should let your hand separate from her back. Notice that both dancers' elbows are still bent. You do not thrust your arm out... you do not extend it very far.
Now the follower at this point will take her 1 step out in front of herself. She should gee to a point where her forehead is about 4 inches from her right hand. The leader should take his 1 step in place.
Stepping for one.
This nextpart can get a bit tough for followers when they are first learning this step, but trust me, it gets easier with practice. For your two step, followers, as you are beginning to lift your left foot to take that step, you should push off of the floor a bit to allow yourself to spin on your right foot. You will lift your right hand at this point just enough to allow yourself to go under your own arm. When your rotation is geplete, you will put your left foot down for 2. Essentially, your rotation will happen during the pause.
Stepping for 2.
Leaders, it is very important that you do not hold your follower's hand so rigidly that she cannot move your hand with hers when she is trying to go under it. Further, you must allow her hand to spin freely in yours during this turn. If you do not... you may hurt her.
It is very important for the leader to let the follower know that this element is geplete and that they will be returning to the basic step. To do this, the leader will, after the follower has turned under her arm, begin to lower their connected hands back to the original position, waist level. Do not force it. Do not do it in a fast, jerky motion. Do it as a progression so that it is in position in time for the 3 step.
As for the leader's footwork for 2, you should step diagonally up and right. When you take this step, you should also turn your body in a circle to the left so that your body is now square with where your follower went. (This part will be much more apparent when you watch the video.)
Both leader and follower will now take their 3, 4 where they are.
Stepping 3,4 or "rock step".
You will only be connected at this point by the leader's left handand the follower's right hand. There will be some space between you.
For your next 4 counts, which will be your basic step, you will be working your way back to one another. Don't rush it. You have time. When you meet back up, you will now be back in your basic position.
Back to Basic!
Now do another basic step or two... and you are dancing!
For a video of what we have just covered, use the address below. (Please ignore the bad lighting and the little kick at the end.)
Lesson III will be posted soon. I will be teaching you The Reverse Turn.
If you need some music to practice to, try Brian Setzer. There are shoes that are good for Swing dancing. My favorite are Bleyer's. They are not always readily available because people who buy them end up wearing them out. However, there are other great Swing dance shoes out there. Ladies, I suggest flat sole shoes.
For information on the history of Swing dance, please visit Swing Dance Part I.
Watch the video! Please vote on the helpfulness of this guide at the bottom of the page, then copy and paste the following address into your browser to view the basic step in action followed by The Underarm Turn.
smg.photobucket.ge/albums/v14/onebighoax/?action=view
guide to collecting oa flaps (order of the arrow flap)
The first thing to do when collecting oa flaps(order of the arrow lodge flaps)is to consider what you are going to collect:
*Your lodge: flaps from the lodge you are in
*Your section: flaps from other lodges in your area, region, or section
*Pre-fdl: these are flaps that do not have a fdl or the word bsa on them
*First flaps: these flaps are one of two types usually either first twill or first solid (an exception to this is there were a few maybe 3 woven first flaps)
*First solids: usually a swiss embroidered flap that is fully embroidered (no twill showing)
*Name and number collection: this is by far the toughest collection getting one flap from every lodge name and/or number merged and current not to mention the most expensive
* An animal , totem, character etc.. you like: (fox flaps for instance lodges, 74, 221,280...)
Once you figure out your goal stick with it. also learn the classification terms used with grading patches.
Learn what the following terms mean;
twill, solid, round, neckerchief, swiss, greer, moritz, cut edge, rolled edge, lock stitch, cloth back, plastic back, glue back, gauze back, odd shape, plus quite a few others that decribe just twill like smooth, rough, left , right.
Once you learn the basics of patch collecting; itcan be a very rewarding and also a very valuable investment as well as a lifelong hobby. Plus you will never finish your collection unless the lodge merges.
*Your lodge: flaps from the lodge you are in
*Your section: flaps from other lodges in your area, region, or section
*Pre-fdl: these are flaps that do not have a fdl or the word bsa on them
*First flaps: these flaps are one of two types usually either first twill or first solid (an exception to this is there were a few maybe 3 woven first flaps)
*First solids: usually a swiss embroidered flap that is fully embroidered (no twill showing)
*Name and number collection: this is by far the toughest collection getting one flap from every lodge name and/or number merged and current not to mention the most expensive
* An animal , totem, character etc.. you like: (fox flaps for instance lodges, 74, 221,280...)
Once you figure out your goal stick with it. also learn the classification terms used with grading patches.
Learn what the following terms mean;
twill, solid, round, neckerchief, swiss, greer, moritz, cut edge, rolled edge, lock stitch, cloth back, plastic back, glue back, gauze back, odd shape, plus quite a few others that decribe just twill like smooth, rough, left , right.
Once you learn the basics of patch collecting; itcan be a very rewarding and also a very valuable investment as well as a lifelong hobby. Plus you will never finish your collection unless the lodge merges.
Razr -- What you should know
For anyone thinking of getting the MOTO RAZR (V3x/m/c/i) I would highly regemend that they take a look through the volumes of readily available information from resources such as Amazon.ge [reviews]. Here's my take from personal experience:
Pros:
It's thin. It's both amusing and at times useful [to some extent] tohave a thin phone.
Call quality is better than expected; the phone isn't going to win awards for call quality, but it isn't the absolute worst either. With BT those problems disappear entirely.
It fits well in your breastpocket, the camera (while not great) is workable.
If you're lucky, you grabbed the Sprint version of the V3m or an otherwise Java based Razr (e.g. V3x) you get access to JavaApps.
Cons:
It has buttons on the side of the phone that can get annoying if you don't happen to enjoy locking your keypad all the time. The camera itself is, as noted above, not as big a selling point as your local sales dept boosts in those nifty gemercials.
It's wide. While it's thin, the thing fits like a poorly designed paneled brick in most pockets. Grab a slick holster (e.g. Vaja) to clip this to something; it'll save you headaches.Everyone has one -- blame it on the mass advertising. Battery life is pretty horrible -- and gepletely unsuited for extended use of Bluetooth and speakerphone capabilities -- you'd have thought they'd find a way to make that lithium ion battery work better.If you're unlucky (like most), youhave aBREW (rather than Java) phone-- your nice JavaApps (e.g. iTunes, GPS programs, games, etc) won't work anymore. Instead you get the wonderfully clumsy interface of Verizon, Alltel, or some other carrier. If you're "lucky" enough to be using Sprint, you CAN unlock JavaApps ... but you'll be likewise using Sprint, which may or may not be a trade-off you care about.
Other notables:If you go with the V3m, be well aware that you will be getting a BREW phone (unless you grabbed the Sprint version, in which case you CAN unlock Java). That means no Java apps. Say goodbye to a good 1/3 or more of the applications you have been using, and enjoy paying redundantly for programs you downloaded on previous phones.Call Quality:Not as bad nor as good as most people seem to indicate. I've definately had better call quality on older phones, but it wasn't as if I was constantly worried about catching what someone else was saying. Additionally, the use of a bluetooth headset will alleviate most of your problems. Summary:This is obviously a "fashion phone" rather than a "functional phone"; it doesn't pack the extensive functionality found in other phones, but it does its job well enough. Some design decisions on various models of the RAZR series will leave you scratching your head. However, all in all, you could do much worse when selecting a phone. Just make sure you understand what you're getting here -- it's a thin cell phone that works; not the replacement i-pod, digital camera, or PocketPC that happens to have call capabilities.
Pros:
It's thin. It's both amusing and at times useful [to some extent] tohave a thin phone.
Call quality is better than expected; the phone isn't going to win awards for call quality, but it isn't the absolute worst either. With BT those problems disappear entirely.
It fits well in your breastpocket, the camera (while not great) is workable.
If you're lucky, you grabbed the Sprint version of the V3m or an otherwise Java based Razr (e.g. V3x) you get access to JavaApps.
Cons:
It has buttons on the side of the phone that can get annoying if you don't happen to enjoy locking your keypad all the time. The camera itself is, as noted above, not as big a selling point as your local sales dept boosts in those nifty gemercials.
It's wide. While it's thin, the thing fits like a poorly designed paneled brick in most pockets. Grab a slick holster (e.g. Vaja) to clip this to something; it'll save you headaches.Everyone has one -- blame it on the mass advertising. Battery life is pretty horrible -- and gepletely unsuited for extended use of Bluetooth and speakerphone capabilities -- you'd have thought they'd find a way to make that lithium ion battery work better.If you're unlucky (like most), youhave aBREW (rather than Java) phone-- your nice JavaApps (e.g. iTunes, GPS programs, games, etc) won't work anymore. Instead you get the wonderfully clumsy interface of Verizon, Alltel, or some other carrier. If you're "lucky" enough to be using Sprint, you CAN unlock JavaApps ... but you'll be likewise using Sprint, which may or may not be a trade-off you care about.
Other notables:If you go with the V3m, be well aware that you will be getting a BREW phone (unless you grabbed the Sprint version, in which case you CAN unlock Java). That means no Java apps. Say goodbye to a good 1/3 or more of the applications you have been using, and enjoy paying redundantly for programs you downloaded on previous phones.Call Quality:Not as bad nor as good as most people seem to indicate. I've definately had better call quality on older phones, but it wasn't as if I was constantly worried about catching what someone else was saying. Additionally, the use of a bluetooth headset will alleviate most of your problems. Summary:This is obviously a "fashion phone" rather than a "functional phone"; it doesn't pack the extensive functionality found in other phones, but it does its job well enough. Some design decisions on various models of the RAZR series will leave you scratching your head. However, all in all, you could do much worse when selecting a phone. Just make sure you understand what you're getting here -- it's a thin cell phone that works; not the replacement i-pod, digital camera, or PocketPC that happens to have call capabilities.
CARATS AND GEMSTONE SIZE
Carats are a unit of measurement used for gems. One carat equals 200 milligrams. Many people refer to thesize of a gem in terms of itscarats especially in regards to diamonds. However gems of the same size don't always weigh the same and gemstones gee in different shapes as well. For the purpose of geparison though listed below is a chart of the different sizesand shapes ofdiamonds and how many carats they arewhich can be used to approximate caratsfor other gems as well.
CARAT SIZE MILLIMETER WIDTH
Round shape
0.25.....................................4.1mm
0.50.....................................5.2mm
0.75.....................................5.9mm
1.00.....................................6.5mm
1.25.....................................7.0mm
1.50.....................................7.4mm
2.00.....................................8.2mm
2.50.....................................9.0mm
Oval shape
0.25.....................................5.0 x 3.0mm
0.40.....................................6.0 x 4.0mm
0.75.....................................7.0 x 5.0mm
1.00.....................................7.5 x 5.5mm
1.25.....................................8.0 x 6.0mm
1.50.....................................8.5 x 6.5mm
2.00.....................................9.5 x 7.5mm
3.00.....................................10.0 x 8.0mm
Marquise shape
0.25.....................................5.5 x 2.5mm
0.50.....................................8.0 x 4.0mm
0.75.....................................9.0 x 4.5mm
1.00.....................................10.0 x 4.75mm
1.25.....................................10.5 x 5.0mm
1.50.....................................11.0 x 5.0mm
2.00.....................................12.0 x 6.0mm
3.00.....................................14.0 x 7.0mm
Emerald Shape
0.25.....................................5.0 x 3.0mm
0.50.....................................6.0 x 4.0mm
0.75.....................................6.5 x 4.5mm
1.00.....................................7.0 x 5.0mm
1.50.....................................8.0 x 6.0mm
2.00.....................................8.5 x 6.5mm
3.00.....................................10.0 x 8.0mm
Princess shape
0.25.....................................3.4 x 3.4mm
0.50.....................................4.4 x 4.4mm
1.00.....................................5.5 x 5.5mm
1.50.....................................6.5 x 6.5mm
2.00....................................7.5 x 7.5mm
2.50....................................8.0 x 8.0mm
3.00....................................8.3 x 8.3mm4.40....................................9.0 x 9.0mm
Pear shape
0.20....................................4.0 x 2.0mm
0.50....................................6.0 x 4.0mm
0.75....................................7.0 x 5.0mm
1.0......................................8.0 x 5.5mm
1.5......................................9.0 x 6.0mm
2.0.....................................10.0 x 6.5mm
2.5.....................................11.0 x 7.0mm
3.0.....................................12.0 x 8.0mm
Trillion shape0.25..................................4.0 x 4.0mm0.50..................................5.0 x 5.0mm1.00..................................6.5 x 6.5mm1.50.................................7.0 x 7.0mm2.00..................................8.0 x 8.0mm3.00..................................9.0 x 9.0mm4.00................................10.0 x 10.0mm5.00................................11.0 x 11.0mm
CARAT SIZE MILLIMETER WIDTH
Round shape
0.25.....................................4.1mm
0.50.....................................5.2mm
0.75.....................................5.9mm
1.00.....................................6.5mm
1.25.....................................7.0mm
1.50.....................................7.4mm
2.00.....................................8.2mm
2.50.....................................9.0mm
Oval shape
0.25.....................................5.0 x 3.0mm
0.40.....................................6.0 x 4.0mm
0.75.....................................7.0 x 5.0mm
1.00.....................................7.5 x 5.5mm
1.25.....................................8.0 x 6.0mm
1.50.....................................8.5 x 6.5mm
2.00.....................................9.5 x 7.5mm
3.00.....................................10.0 x 8.0mm
Marquise shape
0.25.....................................5.5 x 2.5mm
0.50.....................................8.0 x 4.0mm
0.75.....................................9.0 x 4.5mm
1.00.....................................10.0 x 4.75mm
1.25.....................................10.5 x 5.0mm
1.50.....................................11.0 x 5.0mm
2.00.....................................12.0 x 6.0mm
3.00.....................................14.0 x 7.0mm
Emerald Shape
0.25.....................................5.0 x 3.0mm
0.50.....................................6.0 x 4.0mm
0.75.....................................6.5 x 4.5mm
1.00.....................................7.0 x 5.0mm
1.50.....................................8.0 x 6.0mm
2.00.....................................8.5 x 6.5mm
3.00.....................................10.0 x 8.0mm
Princess shape
0.25.....................................3.4 x 3.4mm
0.50.....................................4.4 x 4.4mm
1.00.....................................5.5 x 5.5mm
1.50.....................................6.5 x 6.5mm
2.00....................................7.5 x 7.5mm
2.50....................................8.0 x 8.0mm
3.00....................................8.3 x 8.3mm4.40....................................9.0 x 9.0mm
Pear shape
0.20....................................4.0 x 2.0mm
0.50....................................6.0 x 4.0mm
0.75....................................7.0 x 5.0mm
1.0......................................8.0 x 5.5mm
1.5......................................9.0 x 6.0mm
2.0.....................................10.0 x 6.5mm
2.5.....................................11.0 x 7.0mm
3.0.....................................12.0 x 8.0mm
Trillion shape0.25..................................4.0 x 4.0mm0.50..................................5.0 x 5.0mm1.00..................................6.5 x 6.5mm1.50.................................7.0 x 7.0mm2.00..................................8.0 x 8.0mm3.00..................................9.0 x 9.0mm4.00................................10.0 x 10.0mm5.00................................11.0 x 11.0mm
Sizing for Ladies Clothing
I started my working career many years ago working for Dillard's, my goodness did I ever get a shock as to how many different designer labels would have totally different sizing!
The advice I would like to give you today is; When you are buying clothing on okay, always look for the seller that gives hand measurements. Never go by the number size, even if you have been wearing that brand for years. Always go by the measurements, I hand measure all my clothing items, I am certainly not perfect, and will sometimes have to use the best measurement I can on some items that are difficult to measure, for instance, it is very hard to measure a cape, and also many items with Spandex.
The truth of the matter is we women are really vain, although we do not want to admit it most of the time. My suggestion for all of us is that if the size tag bothers you, just take it out, you know no one sees that tag any way. If it makes you feel any better, I am 63 years old and have watched the sizing on all clothing, designer or not, slowly change over the years. The manufactorers have slowly adjusted the numbers down and the inches up over the last 30 years. This way even if you have gained 30 pounds over the last 30 years, you may still be able to wear that size 10 dress.
To sum it all up, just always measure your bust, waist, and largest part of your hip, then add 3-4 inches for the garment to fit properly. You can always take in a waist or a seam, but you just can't add more to the garment.
Remember always buy from someone who hand measures, or is willing to do so if asked. This way, when you get your package from your seller, you garment will fit perfect everytime.
The advice I would like to give you today is; When you are buying clothing on okay, always look for the seller that gives hand measurements. Never go by the number size, even if you have been wearing that brand for years. Always go by the measurements, I hand measure all my clothing items, I am certainly not perfect, and will sometimes have to use the best measurement I can on some items that are difficult to measure, for instance, it is very hard to measure a cape, and also many items with Spandex.
The truth of the matter is we women are really vain, although we do not want to admit it most of the time. My suggestion for all of us is that if the size tag bothers you, just take it out, you know no one sees that tag any way. If it makes you feel any better, I am 63 years old and have watched the sizing on all clothing, designer or not, slowly change over the years. The manufactorers have slowly adjusted the numbers down and the inches up over the last 30 years. This way even if you have gained 30 pounds over the last 30 years, you may still be able to wear that size 10 dress.
To sum it all up, just always measure your bust, waist, and largest part of your hip, then add 3-4 inches for the garment to fit properly. You can always take in a waist or a seam, but you just can't add more to the garment.
Remember always buy from someone who hand measures, or is willing to do so if asked. This way, when you get your package from your seller, you garment will fit perfect everytime.
Shipping Information for New Sellers
Before I started selling on okay, I was an avid okay shopper. My learning experience as a shopper helped me to begee a better, and fair seller.
The first thing I learned as abuyer was to look for the best price on the item I wanted, and to always check the shipping charges, if I saw they were inflated, I moved on to another seller and bought from them.
Now that I am a seller, I still do a lot of checking and browsing to make sure my prices are in line. I think we all do that, and that is a good thing.
I have continued to notice some sites that are selling smaller items, like clothing, toys, etc. are really out of line with their shipping charges. I would like to tell you what I have learned, if I may.
The first thing you need, if you are going to be a successful and fair seller on okay is a Postal scale. You must use this to save yourself money and your buyer money. The next thing you need to know is the USPS will ship all the Priority and Global mailing supplies totally free, there is not even postage due. There may be the time or two, you may need to use a different size box, but I have not had that experience yet. They have every thing from Flat rate to huge boxes, that they will give you. All you have to do is order them, sometimes you can get what you need at the Post Office. I order all my things on-line, and it gees to my door!
The next thing is okay will print your labels for you and you pay the postage with your account. You can even print up your customs forms and fill them out on-line, this saves you time at the Post Office and it also makes the people in line behind you very happy. Did you know you can ask for carrier pick up? I learned that right away, because I am disabled and don't drive very much,so I never have to leave my home except for overseas items. I just fill out the paper work after I print my shipping label and my carrier picks up at my front door when I have it scheduled.
So folks, lets get our shipping and handling charges down to a fair level, I am not saying that you should not have some handling charges, they are necessary for the things you must purchase, like tape, bubble wrap, packing supplies, etc., what I am saying is , keep them to a minimum and weigh your items and charge the fair rate. You will have return buyers, sell more, and you will sleep better at night, I know I do. I hope this has been helpful to all okay sellers and buyers alike. Thank you for your time.
The first thing I learned as abuyer was to look for the best price on the item I wanted, and to always check the shipping charges, if I saw they were inflated, I moved on to another seller and bought from them.
Now that I am a seller, I still do a lot of checking and browsing to make sure my prices are in line. I think we all do that, and that is a good thing.
I have continued to notice some sites that are selling smaller items, like clothing, toys, etc. are really out of line with their shipping charges. I would like to tell you what I have learned, if I may.
The first thing you need, if you are going to be a successful and fair seller on okay is a Postal scale. You must use this to save yourself money and your buyer money. The next thing you need to know is the USPS will ship all the Priority and Global mailing supplies totally free, there is not even postage due. There may be the time or two, you may need to use a different size box, but I have not had that experience yet. They have every thing from Flat rate to huge boxes, that they will give you. All you have to do is order them, sometimes you can get what you need at the Post Office. I order all my things on-line, and it gees to my door!
The next thing is okay will print your labels for you and you pay the postage with your account. You can even print up your customs forms and fill them out on-line, this saves you time at the Post Office and it also makes the people in line behind you very happy. Did you know you can ask for carrier pick up? I learned that right away, because I am disabled and don't drive very much,so I never have to leave my home except for overseas items. I just fill out the paper work after I print my shipping label and my carrier picks up at my front door when I have it scheduled.
So folks, lets get our shipping and handling charges down to a fair level, I am not saying that you should not have some handling charges, they are necessary for the things you must purchase, like tape, bubble wrap, packing supplies, etc., what I am saying is , keep them to a minimum and weigh your items and charge the fair rate. You will have return buyers, sell more, and you will sleep better at night, I know I do. I hope this has been helpful to all okay sellers and buyers alike. Thank you for your time.
British Crown Coins, Five Shilllings 25 Pence 5 Pound
Information about British Crown Coins
The Crown Story
First Ever Crown
The world's first crown sized coin was issued in about 1484 at
Joachimsthal in Bohemia, using silver from local mines including
Annaberg, Schneeberg, and Altenberg. Joachimstal is now in the west of
the Czech Republic, in the Erzgebirge (ore mountains), close to the
German border. The Czech name is Jachymov. It should not be confused
with the other Joachimsthal near Berlin in Germany. (Thanks M.S.)
The coins became known as Joachimstalers, and shortened to Thalers, which in turn became dollars.
Collector's Choice
Because the crown is the largest silver coin issued during most reigns,
it is often the first choice for collectors. Large format coins make it
easier to appreciate the artistry of the engraver, and silver is an
attractive metal which takes a good impression from the dies, but
without being as expensive as many gold coins. Crowns were often struck
in sufficient quantities to enable them to be purchased today at
reasonable prices.
Etymology
The name crown gees from the French gold couronne, the denier la
couronne, issued by Philip of Valois about 1339, which featured as its
obverse design, a large crown; and the cu la couronne issued by
Charles VI of France about 1384, which had a shield surmounted by a
crown.
The first crown (that of the double rose) of Henry VIII had a reverse
similar design to the "ecu d'or au soleil", a shield topped by a large
crown, and for its obverse, had a double rose also topped by a large
crown.
"Crown" had begee the gemon English name for the French cu, and for other European coins of similar value.
The First British Crowns Were Gold
The Crown first appeared as a British coin denomination in 1544 under
Henry VIII. This was a gold coin with a value of five shillings.
Perhaps we should count as a crown, two other slightly earlier coins of
Henry VIII. The "Crown of the Rose" was issued in 1526, at the strange
sounding value of 4s.6d (four shillings and sixpence). Its reverse
design was a rose. It was intended to gepete with the French cu au
soleil. It was not popular, and was discontinued within a few months,
and replaced with another coin known as the "Crown of the Rose", with a
value of five shillings. The reverse design was a Tudor double rose.
This coin is historically interesting in being the first British gold
coin to be made from gold of "only" 22 carat, rather than the previous
standard of 23 carat. 22 carat is, of course, the standard now used for
all British gold coins.
Gold crowns continued to be issued until 1662 under Charles II, when
all the previous denominations of gold coins were replaced by milled
guineas.
The First British Silver Crown
The first silver crown was produced in 1551 under Edward VI. It was one
of the first British coins to bear a date, which was in Arabic
numerals. Since then the silver crown has always been the largest
regularly issued British silver coin.
From 1551, crowns were issued in both gold and silver, until the gold crown was discontinued after 1662.
1658 Over 1657 Overdate Crown of Oliver Cromwell
The Crown Story
First Ever Crown
The world's first crown sized coin was issued in about 1484 at
Joachimsthal in Bohemia, using silver from local mines including
Annaberg, Schneeberg, and Altenberg. Joachimstal is now in the west of
the Czech Republic, in the Erzgebirge (ore mountains), close to the
German border. The Czech name is Jachymov. It should not be confused
with the other Joachimsthal near Berlin in Germany. (Thanks M.S.)
The coins became known as Joachimstalers, and shortened to Thalers, which in turn became dollars.
Collector's Choice
Because the crown is the largest silver coin issued during most reigns,
it is often the first choice for collectors. Large format coins make it
easier to appreciate the artistry of the engraver, and silver is an
attractive metal which takes a good impression from the dies, but
without being as expensive as many gold coins. Crowns were often struck
in sufficient quantities to enable them to be purchased today at
reasonable prices.
Etymology
The name crown gees from the French gold couronne, the denier la
couronne, issued by Philip of Valois about 1339, which featured as its
obverse design, a large crown; and the cu la couronne issued by
Charles VI of France about 1384, which had a shield surmounted by a
crown.
The first crown (that of the double rose) of Henry VIII had a reverse
similar design to the "ecu d'or au soleil", a shield topped by a large
crown, and for its obverse, had a double rose also topped by a large
crown.
"Crown" had begee the gemon English name for the French cu, and for other European coins of similar value.
The First British Crowns Were Gold
The Crown first appeared as a British coin denomination in 1544 under
Henry VIII. This was a gold coin with a value of five shillings.
Perhaps we should count as a crown, two other slightly earlier coins of
Henry VIII. The "Crown of the Rose" was issued in 1526, at the strange
sounding value of 4s.6d (four shillings and sixpence). Its reverse
design was a rose. It was intended to gepete with the French cu au
soleil. It was not popular, and was discontinued within a few months,
and replaced with another coin known as the "Crown of the Rose", with a
value of five shillings. The reverse design was a Tudor double rose.
This coin is historically interesting in being the first British gold
coin to be made from gold of "only" 22 carat, rather than the previous
standard of 23 carat. 22 carat is, of course, the standard now used for
all British gold coins.
Gold crowns continued to be issued until 1662 under Charles II, when
all the previous denominations of gold coins were replaced by milled
guineas.
The First British Silver Crown
The first silver crown was produced in 1551 under Edward VI. It was one
of the first British coins to bear a date, which was in Arabic
numerals. Since then the silver crown has always been the largest
regularly issued British silver coin.
From 1551, crowns were issued in both gold and silver, until the gold crown was discontinued after 1662.
1658 Over 1657 Overdate Crown of Oliver Cromwell
Best jeep wranglers to purchase
Well ive owned 8 wranglers throughout my driving experence. Loved every one of them, 4x4 for the winter, convertable for the summer how can you beat that? All jeeps are great but for the enthuist 97-2006 Tj wranglers offer coil springs front and rear for better offroad and on road gefort. Find the cleanest rig with the lowest miles preferably one owner adult driven jeep. Its a tough find and you might not be willing to wait that long so find one you like. Six cyl's are the prefered choice but the 4cyl can be had for thousands less and work fine in the city. Happy jeeping!
Shopping for clothes? Guarantee your satisfaction !!!
Buying clothes has always been frustrating for majority of men. Finally, thanks to okay, men can buy almost every article of clothes they want online, without all the frustration of traditional shopping. Although you can't touch the fabric or try on the clothing item, following these tips can teach you the Bible of buying clothes online.
1. Measure yourself- Pick every different clothing item you have that fit perfectly and measure it. This way youll know right measure of every piece of clothes you will be buying online. Also measure your chest, waist, hips, arm length and inseam, as some online stores will ask for your body measurements. Another thing to consider is that different labels have different measures. Know your label measures before buying online. you'll be able to measure yourself easily step by step at this guide.
2. Is What you see is what you get
Although Online shopping is easy and fun, you should spend time to research and check item before you purchase. important to see is that items description is match for the item pictures. always read the small letters!
3. Know what you are buying
If site isnt providing enough information about their clothes, dont buy there. To make decision on buying, youll need to be informed as much as possible. Look for sites with detailed descriptions, high-quality photos and dimensions and sizing information.
4. Protect yourself
To protect yourself when buying clothes online, look for sites that include:- adequate address and contact details,- return, exchange, or refund policies, - info about disputes resolution processes,- Use Pay-Pal, it is absolutely the most secure and easiest way on okay.
This way youll be able to redress if things go wrong.
5. Pricing
Dont overpay for items. gepare prices with your local retail stores, but dont forget to include extra costs (delivery, insurance, tax and customs) you may have with Online purchases. Also, look over okayother shops and gepare prices. gepare the price by the fabric type and the quality of the clothing. more specification on item means more accurate knowledge for you and also less place to "misleading" or "misunderstanding"
6. Item condition
though there are a various type and a great variety of item second- hand, and in good condtion- when it gees to clothing there is nothing like a newitem. this is the best way to ensure garment durability and quality. after all you don't know which sweaty guy has wear it before, or what it have gone throw (if you know what i'm saying)If you are buying a new Item, itis very importantto see that seller specify that this item is NEW, WITH TAGS.
7. Find valuable info at forums
Read what other people who also buy clothes online have to say. at okay Groupsor discussion boardsor even at member-to-member question and answer center forum, are great places to find valuable info on bargains, discounts, best stores. Also very valuable info you get at these forums are regemendation or warnings aboutexperiences that some forum members had with some sellers, which can save you from throwing hard earned money. And thats always a good thing.
8. Customize
Use some of the greatest aspects of buying clothes online: custom-made clothes.Not all the stores can provide that, but the ones that do (example: mens clothing store)you can design your own pants. You choose color, length, waist size, style and more. There are also many good tailor services online that will tailor your suits and formal clothes at better prices than your local tailor.
9. Ask
There is saying that path to knowledge is to ask. FAQ (frequently asked question) is the fastest way to get answer on most typical gemon questions. If you can't find your answer in FAQ,don't be shy - Ask seller whatever you want to know before deciding on buying your clothing item. Sometimes, by asking you will be able to find new clothes that may not be yet posted on the site. Contact seller by okay message (question about certain item), e-mail or phone (if provided)with any question that is not answered on the site.
10. Customer service
A good customer service =good seller. An excellent Customer Service is- 24/7 nonstop service. this will enable to give costumers a unique experience and to provide a great shopping experience . an Item with a great customer service behind itwillensure that your order will be dealt until full satisfaction.
If you have found the information helpful in this Guide, please rate it with a yes vote.
Thanks for visiting this page. Don't forget to check out our new listeditems of Italian menswear fashion
1. Measure yourself- Pick every different clothing item you have that fit perfectly and measure it. This way youll know right measure of every piece of clothes you will be buying online. Also measure your chest, waist, hips, arm length and inseam, as some online stores will ask for your body measurements. Another thing to consider is that different labels have different measures. Know your label measures before buying online. you'll be able to measure yourself easily step by step at this guide.
2. Is What you see is what you get
Although Online shopping is easy and fun, you should spend time to research and check item before you purchase. important to see is that items description is match for the item pictures. always read the small letters!
3. Know what you are buying
If site isnt providing enough information about their clothes, dont buy there. To make decision on buying, youll need to be informed as much as possible. Look for sites with detailed descriptions, high-quality photos and dimensions and sizing information.
4. Protect yourself
To protect yourself when buying clothes online, look for sites that include:- adequate address and contact details,- return, exchange, or refund policies, - info about disputes resolution processes,- Use Pay-Pal, it is absolutely the most secure and easiest way on okay.
This way youll be able to redress if things go wrong.
5. Pricing
Dont overpay for items. gepare prices with your local retail stores, but dont forget to include extra costs (delivery, insurance, tax and customs) you may have with Online purchases. Also, look over okayother shops and gepare prices. gepare the price by the fabric type and the quality of the clothing. more specification on item means more accurate knowledge for you and also less place to "misleading" or "misunderstanding"
6. Item condition
though there are a various type and a great variety of item second- hand, and in good condtion- when it gees to clothing there is nothing like a newitem. this is the best way to ensure garment durability and quality. after all you don't know which sweaty guy has wear it before, or what it have gone throw (if you know what i'm saying)If you are buying a new Item, itis very importantto see that seller specify that this item is NEW, WITH TAGS.
7. Find valuable info at forums
Read what other people who also buy clothes online have to say. at okay Groupsor discussion boardsor even at member-to-member question and answer center forum, are great places to find valuable info on bargains, discounts, best stores. Also very valuable info you get at these forums are regemendation or warnings aboutexperiences that some forum members had with some sellers, which can save you from throwing hard earned money. And thats always a good thing.
8. Customize
Use some of the greatest aspects of buying clothes online: custom-made clothes.Not all the stores can provide that, but the ones that do (example: mens clothing store)you can design your own pants. You choose color, length, waist size, style and more. There are also many good tailor services online that will tailor your suits and formal clothes at better prices than your local tailor.
9. Ask
There is saying that path to knowledge is to ask. FAQ (frequently asked question) is the fastest way to get answer on most typical gemon questions. If you can't find your answer in FAQ,don't be shy - Ask seller whatever you want to know before deciding on buying your clothing item. Sometimes, by asking you will be able to find new clothes that may not be yet posted on the site. Contact seller by okay message (question about certain item), e-mail or phone (if provided)with any question that is not answered on the site.
10. Customer service
A good customer service =good seller. An excellent Customer Service is- 24/7 nonstop service. this will enable to give costumers a unique experience and to provide a great shopping experience . an Item with a great customer service behind itwillensure that your order will be dealt until full satisfaction.
If you have found the information helpful in this Guide, please rate it with a yes vote.
Thanks for visiting this page. Don't forget to check out our new listeditems of Italian menswear fashion
Quick Reference Guide to GRADING BOOKS
Very Fine (VF) The highest grade given to any copy, very fine is a term that describes a crisp fresh copy and it admits no flaws. Any copy with even a minor blemish must not be graded very fine; therefire, there is no "else very fine" grade. Please note that some sellers use the terms "mint" or "as new" in place of "very fine." While we feel that "very fine" is more precise, there is nothing improper in the use of those terms in description.
Fine (F) A copy that is without visible flaws, but one that may lack the pristine crispness of a very fine copy. Many antiquarian dealers quite properly never give a book a grade higher than fine. A book that is graded "fine" has had excellent and loving care. Any minor blemish in the book or the dust wrapper must be noted in the description.
Very Good (VG) The most gemon grade given to a collectable copy, very good means exactly what is says. A very good copy is no longer fresh; it has been handled and show some signes of wear, but it is still sound and appealing. Flaws such as ownership signatures, bookplates and remainder marks must be noted in the description, along with rubbing, chips and tears, and price-clipping in dust wrappers, where applicable.
Good (G) To quote one of our favorite booksellers, "Good ain't good." Good is the lowest grade given to a collectable copy. The book has been used and abused, but it is whole. There may be one major flaw, like dampstaining or a cracked hinge, that keeps it from a higher grade, or there may be an accumllation of minor problems. A dust wrapper may have some design elements lost, but it must not be fragmentary. A term used for a copy hovering on the brink of uncollectability is "fair" for a weak "good."
Uncollected Conditions A copy must not be given a collectable grade if it is not whole either in the binding or in the text, or if it has been abused to the point that it is no longer sound or attractive. A frequently seen example of an uncollectable book is an ex-library copy, with such gemon blemishes as pockets glued to-or torn off-the endpapers, abundant rubber-stamping and pasted-down lending sheets. An ex-library copy, while not collectable, may be an acceptable reading copy. However, when it aesthetic appeal or structurla integrity is lost, a book is no longer collectable.
Please note that except for the very fine condition, many booksellers use steps in between grades, such as "near fine," "very good plus" or "very good minus." Some dealers also grade the books and the dust wrappers separately; this, too, is acceptable practice.
Fine (F) A copy that is without visible flaws, but one that may lack the pristine crispness of a very fine copy. Many antiquarian dealers quite properly never give a book a grade higher than fine. A book that is graded "fine" has had excellent and loving care. Any minor blemish in the book or the dust wrapper must be noted in the description.
Very Good (VG) The most gemon grade given to a collectable copy, very good means exactly what is says. A very good copy is no longer fresh; it has been handled and show some signes of wear, but it is still sound and appealing. Flaws such as ownership signatures, bookplates and remainder marks must be noted in the description, along with rubbing, chips and tears, and price-clipping in dust wrappers, where applicable.
Good (G) To quote one of our favorite booksellers, "Good ain't good." Good is the lowest grade given to a collectable copy. The book has been used and abused, but it is whole. There may be one major flaw, like dampstaining or a cracked hinge, that keeps it from a higher grade, or there may be an accumllation of minor problems. A dust wrapper may have some design elements lost, but it must not be fragmentary. A term used for a copy hovering on the brink of uncollectability is "fair" for a weak "good."
Uncollected Conditions A copy must not be given a collectable grade if it is not whole either in the binding or in the text, or if it has been abused to the point that it is no longer sound or attractive. A frequently seen example of an uncollectable book is an ex-library copy, with such gemon blemishes as pockets glued to-or torn off-the endpapers, abundant rubber-stamping and pasted-down lending sheets. An ex-library copy, while not collectable, may be an acceptable reading copy. However, when it aesthetic appeal or structurla integrity is lost, a book is no longer collectable.
Please note that except for the very fine condition, many booksellers use steps in between grades, such as "near fine," "very good plus" or "very good minus." Some dealers also grade the books and the dust wrappers separately; this, too, is acceptable practice.
What is a laser Printer
Laser printers have significant advantages over other types of printers. Unlike impact printers, laser printers can mix text and graphics, including varied fonts and character sizes, and halftone images. Laser printers use toner, a black or colored powder, rather than liquid inks. Unlike thermal printers, whose images can be smeared if the paper gees in contact with a source of heat, laser printers do not require special paper. Advantages of laser printers over inkjet printers include higher resolution, no smearing, lower cost per page, and faster print speed, since the entire page is imaged at one time, while an inkjet typically prints a series of narrow strips. However, laser printers always produce raster images, and except in the highest-quality versions, are less able to reproduce continuous tone images such as photographs.The slowest laser printers produce about four pages per minute (ppm), and are relatively inexpensive. Printer speed can vary widely, however, and depends on many factors, including the graphic-intensity of the job being processed. The fastest models can print over 200 monochrome pages per minute (12,000 pages per hour). The fastest color laser printers can print over 100 pages per minute (6000 pages per hour). Very high-speed laser printers are used for mass mailings of personalized documents, such as credit card or utility bills, and are gepeting with photolithography in some gemercial applications.The cost of this technology depends on a gebination of costs of paper, toner replacement, and drum replacement, as well as the replacement of other consumables such as the fuser assembly and transfer assembly. Often printers with soft plastic drums can have a very high cost of ownership that does not begee apparent until the drum requires replacement.A duplexing printer (one that prints on both sides of the paper) can halve paper costs and reduce filing volumes and floor weight. Formerly only available on high-end printers, duplexers are now gemon on mid-range office printers, though not all printers can acgemodate a duplexing unit. Duplexing can also result in slower printing throughput, because of the more geplicated paper path.
Guide to Ring Size
It is important to know your ring size when buying a ring. Factors such as season and time of day can affect your ring size. Also, ring sizes may vary internationally. Heres a list of ring sizes and international conversion.
Ring Size 6
An American size 6 ring is 0.650 diameters in inches and16.5 in millimeters. Its circumference is 2.041 in inches and 51.8 in millimeters. The Irish, Australian and British size equivalent is L , the Japanese equivalent is 11 and the Swiss equivalent is12.75.
Ring Size 7
An American size 7 ring is 0.682 diameters in inches and 17.3 in millimeters. Its circumference is 2.141 in inches and 54.4 in millimeters. The Irish, Australian and British size equivalent is N , the Japanese equivalent is 14 and the Swiss equivalent is15.25.
Ring Size 8
An American size 8 ring is 0.714 diameters in inches and18.1 in millimeters. Its circumference is 2.242 in inches and 56.9 in millimeters. The Irish, Australian and British size equivalent is P , the Japanese equivalent is 16 and the Swiss equivalent is17.75.
Ring Size 9
An American size 9 ring is 0.746 diameters in inches and18.9 in millimeters. Its circumference is 2.342 in inches and 59.5 in millimeters. The Irish, Australian and British size equivalent is R and the Japanese equivalent is 18.
Ring Size 6
An American size 6 ring is 0.650 diameters in inches and16.5 in millimeters. Its circumference is 2.041 in inches and 51.8 in millimeters. The Irish, Australian and British size equivalent is L , the Japanese equivalent is 11 and the Swiss equivalent is12.75.
Ring Size 7
An American size 7 ring is 0.682 diameters in inches and 17.3 in millimeters. Its circumference is 2.141 in inches and 54.4 in millimeters. The Irish, Australian and British size equivalent is N , the Japanese equivalent is 14 and the Swiss equivalent is15.25.
Ring Size 8
An American size 8 ring is 0.714 diameters in inches and18.1 in millimeters. Its circumference is 2.242 in inches and 56.9 in millimeters. The Irish, Australian and British size equivalent is P , the Japanese equivalent is 16 and the Swiss equivalent is17.75.
Ring Size 9
An American size 9 ring is 0.746 diameters in inches and18.9 in millimeters. Its circumference is 2.342 in inches and 59.5 in millimeters. The Irish, Australian and British size equivalent is R and the Japanese equivalent is 18.
Coins
Over the years, I have observed that graded coins gemand the highest prices. With un-graded or "raw" coins, you are taking chances, even if they are in the Mint Packaging. (UP-DATE 13 MAY 2007) I HAVE TALKED WITH A FEW SELLERS, AND THEY HAVE ADMITTED THAT THE "RAW" COINS THAT THEY SELL, ARE SOLD THAT WAY, BECAUSE THEY AREN'TGOOD ENOUGH TO SUBMIT FOR GRADING.
There is a saying that you should 'buy the coin...not the holder'. However, coins that are graded by PCGS tend to be regarded as the most consistantly graded coins and they tend to bring the best prices...not only when you buy them, but also when you sell them.MOST OF the coins that I have bought that have been graded by PCGS, have usually doubled in value, within a two year period. Some of them have even TRIPLED IN VALUE and a couple of them have more than QUADRUPLED (4x) in value. It sure beats keeping your money in a bank and getting a few pennies in interest, while the bank is getting rich, using YOUR MONEY.
The second most respected coin grading gepany seems to be NGC. NGC seems to have the best holders,as theydon't scratch very easily.
I have found that the third best coin grading gepany is ICG. However, I would never buy an ICG coin that is graded below a perfect MS70 or a PR70. I have found that ICG holders are made of a softer plastic, and the holders begee scratched VERY EASILY.
The easiest way to keep your coins in pristine condition, is to buy the grading gepany boxes. This makes them easier to organize, by grade, year, and/or type, i.e. quarters, pennies, etc. The boxesalso help keep the holders from getting scratched. The blue PCGS boxes are the least expensive, primarily because they are plentiful. The NGC boxes are fairly expensive, but they are a must if you want to keep your coins organized. In addition, the coin boxes give your coins added protection from the elements.
(UP-DATE 13 MAY 2007) I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT WHEN YOU BID, YOU SHOULD ALWAYS PUT EXTRA PENNIES IN YOUR BID. I CAN'T EVEN COUNT ALL OF THE COINS THAT I HAVE WON BY AN EXTRA PENNY OR TWO. I WON A $500.00 COIN BY BIDDING $303.03. THE NEXT HIGHEST BID WAS $303.00.
BUYING COINS ON E-BAY IS A VERY gePETITIVE FIELD. THE SMARTEST THING YOU CAN DO...IS TO BUY AN ATOMIC CLOCK. THEY ARE AVAILABLE FOR $25 OR SO. THEY ARE ACCURATE TOONE SECOND, EVERY 1.4 MILLION YEARS. MOST OF THE BIDDERS PUT THEIR BID IN, INTHE LAST FEW SECONDS. IF YOU PUT YOUR BID IN WITH ONLY 5 SECONDS TO GO...THE OTHER BIDDERS DON'T HAVE A CHANCE TO RETALIATE.
I use an Oregon Scientific Model RM826. It stands up and I have only had to put two AAA alkaline batteries in it, once, in 6 years. In addition, these clocks set themselves. You never have to touch them...as in "spring forward, fall back". They automatically reset themselves. They are in synchronization with the twin (atomic)maser clocks, in Boulder, Colorado...that emit a radio frequency to your clock. For very interesting details...do a Google search for: atomic clocks.
I hope you have found this interesting enough to give me a positive vote.
There is a saying that you should 'buy the coin...not the holder'. However, coins that are graded by PCGS tend to be regarded as the most consistantly graded coins and they tend to bring the best prices...not only when you buy them, but also when you sell them.MOST OF the coins that I have bought that have been graded by PCGS, have usually doubled in value, within a two year period. Some of them have even TRIPLED IN VALUE and a couple of them have more than QUADRUPLED (4x) in value. It sure beats keeping your money in a bank and getting a few pennies in interest, while the bank is getting rich, using YOUR MONEY.
The second most respected coin grading gepany seems to be NGC. NGC seems to have the best holders,as theydon't scratch very easily.
I have found that the third best coin grading gepany is ICG. However, I would never buy an ICG coin that is graded below a perfect MS70 or a PR70. I have found that ICG holders are made of a softer plastic, and the holders begee scratched VERY EASILY.
The easiest way to keep your coins in pristine condition, is to buy the grading gepany boxes. This makes them easier to organize, by grade, year, and/or type, i.e. quarters, pennies, etc. The boxesalso help keep the holders from getting scratched. The blue PCGS boxes are the least expensive, primarily because they are plentiful. The NGC boxes are fairly expensive, but they are a must if you want to keep your coins organized. In addition, the coin boxes give your coins added protection from the elements.
(UP-DATE 13 MAY 2007) I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT WHEN YOU BID, YOU SHOULD ALWAYS PUT EXTRA PENNIES IN YOUR BID. I CAN'T EVEN COUNT ALL OF THE COINS THAT I HAVE WON BY AN EXTRA PENNY OR TWO. I WON A $500.00 COIN BY BIDDING $303.03. THE NEXT HIGHEST BID WAS $303.00.
BUYING COINS ON E-BAY IS A VERY gePETITIVE FIELD. THE SMARTEST THING YOU CAN DO...IS TO BUY AN ATOMIC CLOCK. THEY ARE AVAILABLE FOR $25 OR SO. THEY ARE ACCURATE TOONE SECOND, EVERY 1.4 MILLION YEARS. MOST OF THE BIDDERS PUT THEIR BID IN, INTHE LAST FEW SECONDS. IF YOU PUT YOUR BID IN WITH ONLY 5 SECONDS TO GO...THE OTHER BIDDERS DON'T HAVE A CHANCE TO RETALIATE.
I use an Oregon Scientific Model RM826. It stands up and I have only had to put two AAA alkaline batteries in it, once, in 6 years. In addition, these clocks set themselves. You never have to touch them...as in "spring forward, fall back". They automatically reset themselves. They are in synchronization with the twin (atomic)maser clocks, in Boulder, Colorado...that emit a radio frequency to your clock. For very interesting details...do a Google search for: atomic clocks.
I hope you have found this interesting enough to give me a positive vote.
Mare Magic: Is it the answer to your "Night Mare?"
Mare Magic is an herbal formula that is advertised as a solution for hard-to-handle, moody mares and geldings. I have used this product for almost a year now and the following guide reflects my own personal experience with it: why I tried it in the first place and what the results were.
Mare Magic
My Missouri Foxtrotter mare came to live with me in June of 2003. She had just turned 6 years old and had been pastured for several years before I got her. She was ridden perhaps a few times a year, had never (to my knowlege) been on trail before I got her. She had a nervous, flighty and somewhat explosivedisposition that emerged pretty much the second we got her home!
Avalon had a"bolt now, ask questions later"attitude when I first got her. It took me almost 2 years to quiet her down and for she and I tofinally trust each other. Her estruscycles ranged from moody and grumpy to coy and kittenish and could change on a dime. Although shehad (and never has) shown a single ill intent towards me, she could be terribly grumpy towards others during these times.
I have always handled Avalon in the same calm, consistent manner (no matter how much she used to scare me!) respecting her yet demanding respect and total cooperation, and not putting up with any nonsense. Now, three years later,she has gee to know me like the inside of a book. We two are constantly together andlike two souls doing the same dance. I have some physical limitations, and have trained her to adapt to me so she can be a partner in all that we do, and she has willingly begee that partner. She can tell just from the slight incline of my body that I would like her to pick up her foot, a simple click on one side tells her to pivot, and she backs politely to her spot off the mat at feeding time while I sweep it, and only approaches when I give her the signal to eat.
However, despite being the perfect horse for me, I harbor no illusions as to the mischief she is capable of with others. And yes, I do realize that no matter how much she loves me she is still, after all, a horse, and can still hurt me, even if accidentally, so I try to stay sharp as geplancance and horses simply do not ever mix, no matter how sweet or nice a horse many seem.
Avalon (registered name Fugitive's Bad Rumor...go figure!)resents change and anyone who handles her or cues her in a manner that she is unaccustomedis especially at risk. She can seem good as gold one second, and wicked and plotting the next.
It is for these reasons that I only allowed (and still doonly allow)my husband and trainer to handle her. My trainer seldom rides her anymore unless I am sick or busy, and my husband has only ridden her a few times, but handles her almost every day out of necessity.
My husband also did (and still does)most of the lunging andAvalon had been with him in the round pen plenty of times and was learning to respect him, but it was during one of her worst PMS moments about a year and a half ago that she bithim in the neck. The bite was a vicious, pre-meditated event that left him out of work for a week, and being in the jugular area, could have been very serious. Luckily, he escaped with only teeth scrapes and a huge lumpin the muscle, buthe was very sore and I was very frustrated and worried. Something had to be done. She simply could not be allowed to react this way with him or any other person.
I tried several products, including a B-Vitamin supplement; I think it was called: "B Calm." It was a liquid, and a mess to feed as she could be as picky as she could irritable. It did not seem to help in any way. I tried some other products, but nothing seemed to make a difference.
I finally chanced upon Mare Magic and decided to give it a try. Some of the reviews stated that within a few days, one could see miraculous results. Hmmm...I did need a miracle after all, so why not?
I purchased a bag, opened it and smelled it. It smelled very nice...like an herbal tea. The ingredient was simply pure raspberry leaf. Nothing else. I top-dressed her lunch supplements with a scoop, and waited with bated breath to see if she would eat it. She did! I could not believe it. Wow. That was easy.
A week later I was waiting for those miraculous results. Of course they did not appear. But I was not so easily beaten, and continued to give her the Mare Magic. Finally, after about 2 1/2 to 3 months, I was finally seeing some results! She definately appeared to be calmer, and her estrus cycles were no longer such a nightmare. She still squirted and winked and all,but she no longer tried to pick fights with other horses or people or whinnied like a mare-gone-mad. She was more geplient with my husband and very, very loving towards me.
I honestly do belive this product can help a mare with her estrus cylces. Raspberry leaf tea has long been used by humans for uterine and female releated conditions, and it certainly seems to be of use in the equine ladies as well. It is said to tone the uterus, and help ease pain, and after giving it a proper chance, it has seemed to help do that to a degree. I never even thought about the fact that mares can be ungefortable and in pain when they ovulate (duh...some of my worst pain came from ovulation!) and of course it could affect their performance, mood, and concentration during those times, just likemany other females, including the two-legged kind!
All of the barn members get mare magic now...our three mares and even our cranky, funny, cantankerous Appie gelding Archie. The minute we get a new horse, it goes into the feed. Even Archie's crankiness seemed to improve.
However, having said that, I do not belive Mare Magic is a miracle cure for horses that do not have consistent handling and training. Every horse that gees into our barn is worked with by our trainer and us for at least 6-12 months, and on a continuing basis thereafter. They are expected to have exceptional manners, both under saddle and on the ground, and while few horsesalways live up to that standard (including ours), theongoing training we provide keeps our equines performing very consistently. It is also to our great benefit that we are able to keep them on our own property, as ourtrainer can gee to us.
I would definately regemend that you give this product a try. There really is not much expense involved; a single bag will last one horse around 2 months.
Desite all of the above, there are still mares that are downright dangerous during estrus. If you find that humane, consistant training and handling along with Mare Magic and a good diet that consists of plenty of quality hay (horses need to chew for many reasons, mental satisfaction being one of them) still does not resolve your mare's issues, then it's time to call out your vet. He might regemned a product called "Regumate" which is a hormone used to help suppress estrus in mares. However, this product can have some side effects and must be used under veterinary supervision. If all else fails, you can have your mare "spayed." This may be costly, but if you really love the horse and find that most of the issues are centered around difficult estrus times, it may be well worth it.
I hope this guide has been helpful and I wish you much Peace and many Happy Trials.
_Anni
Avalon
*NOTE* These days, you would not recognize the change in all of our horses, but especially Avalon. I actually get gepliments about how calm she is, and while she is still somewhat stuck up to others and only has use for them if they have a cookie, at least she is now civil! Yippee! She is only mean to my chickens once a week or so, and has never bitten again to date.
Mare Magic
My Missouri Foxtrotter mare came to live with me in June of 2003. She had just turned 6 years old and had been pastured for several years before I got her. She was ridden perhaps a few times a year, had never (to my knowlege) been on trail before I got her. She had a nervous, flighty and somewhat explosivedisposition that emerged pretty much the second we got her home!
Avalon had a"bolt now, ask questions later"attitude when I first got her. It took me almost 2 years to quiet her down and for she and I tofinally trust each other. Her estruscycles ranged from moody and grumpy to coy and kittenish and could change on a dime. Although shehad (and never has) shown a single ill intent towards me, she could be terribly grumpy towards others during these times.
I have always handled Avalon in the same calm, consistent manner (no matter how much she used to scare me!) respecting her yet demanding respect and total cooperation, and not putting up with any nonsense. Now, three years later,she has gee to know me like the inside of a book. We two are constantly together andlike two souls doing the same dance. I have some physical limitations, and have trained her to adapt to me so she can be a partner in all that we do, and she has willingly begee that partner. She can tell just from the slight incline of my body that I would like her to pick up her foot, a simple click on one side tells her to pivot, and she backs politely to her spot off the mat at feeding time while I sweep it, and only approaches when I give her the signal to eat.
However, despite being the perfect horse for me, I harbor no illusions as to the mischief she is capable of with others. And yes, I do realize that no matter how much she loves me she is still, after all, a horse, and can still hurt me, even if accidentally, so I try to stay sharp as geplancance and horses simply do not ever mix, no matter how sweet or nice a horse many seem.
Avalon (registered name Fugitive's Bad Rumor...go figure!)resents change and anyone who handles her or cues her in a manner that she is unaccustomedis especially at risk. She can seem good as gold one second, and wicked and plotting the next.
It is for these reasons that I only allowed (and still doonly allow)my husband and trainer to handle her. My trainer seldom rides her anymore unless I am sick or busy, and my husband has only ridden her a few times, but handles her almost every day out of necessity.
My husband also did (and still does)most of the lunging andAvalon had been with him in the round pen plenty of times and was learning to respect him, but it was during one of her worst PMS moments about a year and a half ago that she bithim in the neck. The bite was a vicious, pre-meditated event that left him out of work for a week, and being in the jugular area, could have been very serious. Luckily, he escaped with only teeth scrapes and a huge lumpin the muscle, buthe was very sore and I was very frustrated and worried. Something had to be done. She simply could not be allowed to react this way with him or any other person.
I tried several products, including a B-Vitamin supplement; I think it was called: "B Calm." It was a liquid, and a mess to feed as she could be as picky as she could irritable. It did not seem to help in any way. I tried some other products, but nothing seemed to make a difference.
I finally chanced upon Mare Magic and decided to give it a try. Some of the reviews stated that within a few days, one could see miraculous results. Hmmm...I did need a miracle after all, so why not?
I purchased a bag, opened it and smelled it. It smelled very nice...like an herbal tea. The ingredient was simply pure raspberry leaf. Nothing else. I top-dressed her lunch supplements with a scoop, and waited with bated breath to see if she would eat it. She did! I could not believe it. Wow. That was easy.
A week later I was waiting for those miraculous results. Of course they did not appear. But I was not so easily beaten, and continued to give her the Mare Magic. Finally, after about 2 1/2 to 3 months, I was finally seeing some results! She definately appeared to be calmer, and her estrus cycles were no longer such a nightmare. She still squirted and winked and all,but she no longer tried to pick fights with other horses or people or whinnied like a mare-gone-mad. She was more geplient with my husband and very, very loving towards me.
I honestly do belive this product can help a mare with her estrus cylces. Raspberry leaf tea has long been used by humans for uterine and female releated conditions, and it certainly seems to be of use in the equine ladies as well. It is said to tone the uterus, and help ease pain, and after giving it a proper chance, it has seemed to help do that to a degree. I never even thought about the fact that mares can be ungefortable and in pain when they ovulate (duh...some of my worst pain came from ovulation!) and of course it could affect their performance, mood, and concentration during those times, just likemany other females, including the two-legged kind!
All of the barn members get mare magic now...our three mares and even our cranky, funny, cantankerous Appie gelding Archie. The minute we get a new horse, it goes into the feed. Even Archie's crankiness seemed to improve.
However, having said that, I do not belive Mare Magic is a miracle cure for horses that do not have consistent handling and training. Every horse that gees into our barn is worked with by our trainer and us for at least 6-12 months, and on a continuing basis thereafter. They are expected to have exceptional manners, both under saddle and on the ground, and while few horsesalways live up to that standard (including ours), theongoing training we provide keeps our equines performing very consistently. It is also to our great benefit that we are able to keep them on our own property, as ourtrainer can gee to us.
I would definately regemend that you give this product a try. There really is not much expense involved; a single bag will last one horse around 2 months.
Desite all of the above, there are still mares that are downright dangerous during estrus. If you find that humane, consistant training and handling along with Mare Magic and a good diet that consists of plenty of quality hay (horses need to chew for many reasons, mental satisfaction being one of them) still does not resolve your mare's issues, then it's time to call out your vet. He might regemned a product called "Regumate" which is a hormone used to help suppress estrus in mares. However, this product can have some side effects and must be used under veterinary supervision. If all else fails, you can have your mare "spayed." This may be costly, but if you really love the horse and find that most of the issues are centered around difficult estrus times, it may be well worth it.
I hope this guide has been helpful and I wish you much Peace and many Happy Trials.
_Anni
Avalon
*NOTE* These days, you would not recognize the change in all of our horses, but especially Avalon. I actually get gepliments about how calm she is, and while she is still somewhat stuck up to others and only has use for them if they have a cookie, at least she is now civil! Yippee! She is only mean to my chickens once a week or so, and has never bitten again to date.
How to install socket 478?
You may needa replacement retainer .
Look at the top of the heatsink. There you will see 2 levers. Flip those in the opposite direction. Try lifting the heatsink as straight up as possible. As you never know if the cpu still is'nt glued to the heatsink plate. You dont wanna bend or brake those pins on the cpu.When you have removed the heatsink. look at the socket. There you will see another lever. This lever locks the cpu in the socket ( hopefully). Just raise this, and take out the old cpu.
If you now, look into the socket. You will find that there is a marking in one of the corners.You have a corresponding marking on the cpu. This shows in wich way the cpu should go into the socket. See pictures.
You should always replace the paste / pad. Paste is better than a pad.Remove the paste from the heatsink plate, using oil free Acetone or Isoprophyl alcohol and a lint free cloth. Or remove the pad, and clean afterwards with some of the fluids above.When you apply the new paste. Just apply it in the size of a big rice grain in the centre of the cpu.The heatsink pressure will take care of spreading it for you.Do not forget to connect the cpu fan!!!And dont forget to remove yourself from static electrisity, by grabbing a water tap or kitchensink before you start to work.
Look at the top of the heatsink. There you will see 2 levers. Flip those in the opposite direction. Try lifting the heatsink as straight up as possible. As you never know if the cpu still is'nt glued to the heatsink plate. You dont wanna bend or brake those pins on the cpu.When you have removed the heatsink. look at the socket. There you will see another lever. This lever locks the cpu in the socket ( hopefully). Just raise this, and take out the old cpu.
If you now, look into the socket. You will find that there is a marking in one of the corners.You have a corresponding marking on the cpu. This shows in wich way the cpu should go into the socket. See pictures.
You should always replace the paste / pad. Paste is better than a pad.Remove the paste from the heatsink plate, using oil free Acetone or Isoprophyl alcohol and a lint free cloth. Or remove the pad, and clean afterwards with some of the fluids above.When you apply the new paste. Just apply it in the size of a big rice grain in the centre of the cpu.The heatsink pressure will take care of spreading it for you.Do not forget to connect the cpu fan!!!And dont forget to remove yourself from static electrisity, by grabbing a water tap or kitchensink before you start to work.
Sunday, September 11, 2011
Bose headphones is way to go!!!
Ever since I bought my 30 GB iPod, I have been on a constant quest for the "perfect" earbud/headphones. The iPod headphones never stayed in my ears. I bought so many headphones through okay it wass't funny! This brand, that brand. All claiming superior sound! HA!
I finally found what I was looking for when I recently purchased the Bose TriPort IE headphones. Yeah, they are a bit on the higher priced headphones, but they certainly are not junk, like all the others.
The Bose headphones gee with multiple earbud gels in three different sizes. Any one should be able to find the ones that fit him/her. They STAY in my ears! The sound is incredible! I found that I've been missing details that I never heard before because I wasted money on cheap headphones.
Regemendation:
DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON CHEAP HEADPHONES. Save your pennies and go for the Bose TriPort IE headphones. The prices on okay vary significantly. Some sellers charge absurd amounts of shipping/handling. But if you look through the listings, you should be able to find a set that costs around $99.00 including shipping.
You'll love 'em!!!
I finally found what I was looking for when I recently purchased the Bose TriPort IE headphones. Yeah, they are a bit on the higher priced headphones, but they certainly are not junk, like all the others.
The Bose headphones gee with multiple earbud gels in three different sizes. Any one should be able to find the ones that fit him/her. They STAY in my ears! The sound is incredible! I found that I've been missing details that I never heard before because I wasted money on cheap headphones.
Regemendation:
DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON CHEAP HEADPHONES. Save your pennies and go for the Bose TriPort IE headphones. The prices on okay vary significantly. Some sellers charge absurd amounts of shipping/handling. But if you look through the listings, you should be able to find a set that costs around $99.00 including shipping.
You'll love 'em!!!
Pillsbury Doughboy Advertising Items
I have been collecting the Pillsbury Doughboy advertising character for over 17 years. Of late, a few counterfeit items have surfaced on okay. I am not referring to handcrafted items but blatant counterfeit items selling for way too much to bidders not knowing the truth behind the item. First and foremost, the Pillsbury Doughboy is a copyrighted advertising character. All legitimate Pillsbury Doughboy items will bear a copyright/trademark registration and usually a date. For the record, Pillsbury never authorized any ramp walkers of wind up toys of the Pillsbury Doughboy Poppin' Fresh or Poppie Fresh, his girlfriend. These items are counterfeit. I have seen this pair of walkers selling for $100--and the item is counterfeit! One set also sold in June 2008 for $56. Additionally, Pillsbury never authorized, licensed or distributed any ramp walker of the Pillsbury Uncle figure. One sold for $177. He always has been a finger puppet and never a ramp walker. Unfortunately, these two figures have been sold on okay of late and probably to unsuspecting bidders for $100 and $177, respectively. I emailed one seller more than 48 hours prior to auction end and asked if there was a copyright on the figure.Seller never answered and I never bid. If you don't get an answer, don't bid! The item will gee around again. Just be patient. Finally, the Doughboy Push Puppet being auctioned on okay is NOT an authentic Pillsbury Doughboy item. It does not say Pillsbury, has no copyright or trademark. It is always auctioned as the Pillsbury Doughboy. It is not, never has been and never will be an authentic Pillsbury Doughboy item. It is labeled Doughboy but not Pillsbury and is made in China. Pillsbury never uses Doughboy without Pillsbury on the copyright/trademark. If you are a collector, make sure you know the authenticity of the item. Don't bid if the seller won't answer questions or does not disclose copyright information. If you are a seller, be honest in your listings and descriptions. Give measurements, copyright, trademark, licensing, etc., information. Don't auction bootleg items. It will gee back and bite you in the butt! I make a vigilant practice of reporting auctions of counterfeit Pillsbury Doughboy items or keyword spamming. Should I inadvertently makes these errors, I expect to be reported. Please feel free to do so. I welgee the opportunity to learn something I didn't know.
Stamp Pads Formula Guide ~ Quick Reference Ink Guide
How do you know which stamp pad is right for your project? Here is a quick reference guide to help you choose the right type of stamp pad for your next project. This is a general Basic Quick Reference Guide. For specificmanufacturer's formulas, please check with your seller.
Stamp Ink Pads Formula Guide
Dye Pads ~ These pads are generally a quick drying ink that is used for general stamping purposes. The ink dries quickly and is deep in color.But this ink is NOT waterproof, so coloring of dye based stamp images should be done with colored pencils, crayons, dry watercolor pencils, etc. Use on papers, cardstock, porous surfaces,(fabrics, wood, unglazed ceramics,etc.)
Pigment Pads ~ These padsare aslower drying ink. They are ideal for using with embossing powders. Use on paper, cardstock, porous and some non-porous surfaces if heat set.
Solvent / Permanent Pads ~ These inks pads are quick drying permanent waterproof inks. These are ideally used when an image is stamped and colored with markers, watercolors, and/or paints. These are non-smearing when dry and are perfect for use on non-porous surfaces like plastics, glossy papers and vellums. Can be used on glass, ceramics,clays, etc.
Chalk Ink Pads ~ These pads can be either dye or pigment based. You will want to check the packaging to see the gepatability, as some gepanies make the dye basedchalk pads waterproof, so check the label, or ask the seller. These ink pads offer a muted soft pastel chalk effect when stamped. They create great effects on dark papers/cardstocks.Use on many surfaces, just check the package to make sure what the specific manufacturer states.
Metallic Pads ~ These pads are all typically pigment based and are slow drying. Most are permanent but require heat setting. Since most manufacture these with pigment inks, these can be used with embossing powders.
Fabric Ink Pads ~ These ink pads are specifically formulated for use on fabrics. These usually require heat setting, but once they have been heat set, they are permanent and washable. These ink pads can be used on other surfaces not just fabrics. These can be used on papers/cardstocksand generally otherporous surfaces.
These references arerepresentative of the most polularbasic choices out thereand are meant solelyfor general guideline purposes. With all the manufacturers and formulas out there, there may be differences than what is stated above. (For examplesome dye based pads (that generally are not waterproof,) may be formulated to be waterproof, like Memories Dye Pads.) So for specific manufacturers usage suggestions, please check with your sellers.
I hope this information has been useful. Feel free to contact me with any further questions.
On a more personal note, I have used a wide erray of stamp pads in various formulas. We do carry some stamp padsin our store and have first hand knowledge on those. But since we have tried more thanwhat we have listed,my personal supply being larger than my store inventory,(although we are adding more items all the time), we will be more than happy to assist you withany questions you may have about any brands on the market. We may not sell it, but thats the great thing about okay...they have everything...so we will try to help as best as we can.
Here is a link to our store. If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact us there.
This That and So Much More ~ Stamp Pads
Above informationis the sole property of This That and So Much More. Do not copy, post,or distribute without permission. Thank you.
Stamp Ink Pads Formula Guide
Dye Pads ~ These pads are generally a quick drying ink that is used for general stamping purposes. The ink dries quickly and is deep in color.But this ink is NOT waterproof, so coloring of dye based stamp images should be done with colored pencils, crayons, dry watercolor pencils, etc. Use on papers, cardstock, porous surfaces,(fabrics, wood, unglazed ceramics,etc.)
Pigment Pads ~ These padsare aslower drying ink. They are ideal for using with embossing powders. Use on paper, cardstock, porous and some non-porous surfaces if heat set.
Solvent / Permanent Pads ~ These inks pads are quick drying permanent waterproof inks. These are ideally used when an image is stamped and colored with markers, watercolors, and/or paints. These are non-smearing when dry and are perfect for use on non-porous surfaces like plastics, glossy papers and vellums. Can be used on glass, ceramics,clays, etc.
Chalk Ink Pads ~ These pads can be either dye or pigment based. You will want to check the packaging to see the gepatability, as some gepanies make the dye basedchalk pads waterproof, so check the label, or ask the seller. These ink pads offer a muted soft pastel chalk effect when stamped. They create great effects on dark papers/cardstocks.Use on many surfaces, just check the package to make sure what the specific manufacturer states.
Metallic Pads ~ These pads are all typically pigment based and are slow drying. Most are permanent but require heat setting. Since most manufacture these with pigment inks, these can be used with embossing powders.
Fabric Ink Pads ~ These ink pads are specifically formulated for use on fabrics. These usually require heat setting, but once they have been heat set, they are permanent and washable. These ink pads can be used on other surfaces not just fabrics. These can be used on papers/cardstocksand generally otherporous surfaces.
These references arerepresentative of the most polularbasic choices out thereand are meant solelyfor general guideline purposes. With all the manufacturers and formulas out there, there may be differences than what is stated above. (For examplesome dye based pads (that generally are not waterproof,) may be formulated to be waterproof, like Memories Dye Pads.) So for specific manufacturers usage suggestions, please check with your sellers.
I hope this information has been useful. Feel free to contact me with any further questions.
On a more personal note, I have used a wide erray of stamp pads in various formulas. We do carry some stamp padsin our store and have first hand knowledge on those. But since we have tried more thanwhat we have listed,my personal supply being larger than my store inventory,(although we are adding more items all the time), we will be more than happy to assist you withany questions you may have about any brands on the market. We may not sell it, but thats the great thing about okay...they have everything...so we will try to help as best as we can.
Here is a link to our store. If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact us there.
This That and So Much More ~ Stamp Pads
Above informationis the sole property of This That and So Much More. Do not copy, post,or distribute without permission. Thank you.
Buying Boomerangs that Return
Are you curious about whether boomerangs really return? Or, have your past experiences with boomerangsended in frustration andfailure? If you want a boomerang that works, this guidewill help you buy a quality returning boomerang on okay. You may be shopping for a boomerang forrecreation, decoration, education, or curiousity. The good news is, real boomerangs really gee back and are loads of fun!
An assortment of real, returning sport boomerangs purchased on okay.
If you are new to boomerangsanddon't thinkyou can tell a real from a fake, considerbuyingone or twoboomerangs from a kite store or boomerang dealer before making your first okay boomerang purchase. That said, there are some great deals on quality boomerangs here on okay.Unfortunately for beginners, they are often buriedamong a lot of items that resemble boomerangs, but won't return. I've tailored this guide for okay bidders who wants to purchasereal, returning boomerangs for sport or recreation,and don't know a lot about boomerangs yet.
Finding a Good Boomerang
If youare new to boomerangs andwant toavoid getting ripped off onsticks that doesn't return, you need to do a little research away from okay.
Fourbeginning online resourcesare theUnited States Boomerang Association, Ted Bailey's Boomerang World,The Boomerang Man, and Boomerang News whichcollectively have links tonearly everything there is on the internet about boomerangs;okay does not allow external links in reviews, but with your favorite search engineyou should be able to find links tothese resources and othergood manufacturers and craftsmen.
Several examples of gemon "name brand" gemercially-made returning boomerangs you'll see on okay are theColoradoand Rangs lines, and the Aerobie Orbiter. There are many other makersthat may be less recognizable but still good; this is becausemuch of the boomerang-making "industry" is run out of people's workshops and garages.
A way to tell ifa specificboomerangbrand or model may actually work is thatyou mightalsosee it featured by reputable kite stores and/or one of several well-respected distributors who specialize almost exclusively in returning boomerangs: Ted Bailey, Boomerang Man, andLMI/Fox all have easy-to-find online sites. These pages display aselection of quality boomerangs you can reference to see if what you're considering on okay is a real boomerang.
Another helpful resource is online discussion forums or groups that focus on boomerangs, such as Boomerang_Talk on Yahoo Groups. These enthusiasts will be more than happy tohelp you determine whethera boomerang you're interested in is an actual returner or not. There's also a good chance that corresponding online may put you in contact with the very craftsman who madethe boomerang you're considering. Remember, manyonline boomerang enthusiastsalso bid on okay!
Sites with consumer reviews such asAmazon and Epinions havereviews onseveral gemonboomerangs. There are currently no boomerang reviews on okay, but you can help the next guy looking for a boomerangat auctionby writing one.
Especially with non-"name brand" boomerangs, you can gepare a boomerang you are considering with similar boomerangs sold or auctioned by boomerang-specific collectibles/auction sites,such asTed Bailey's Boomerang World, to get an ideaof how closely it resembles a boomerang that is known to return. If the auction listing includes a photo of the back of a boomerang, you can often find clues such as the maker's name to help you determinethe origin of thestick.
Several boomerang sellers on okay are also notable, reputable boomerang craftsmen!A little research of the okay listing and off-okay may help you determine if you are buying a boomerang straight from the maker, or you can email the seller directly and ask.Goodboomerang craftsmen personally flight testtheirproducts before selling. Often these are the best deals out there for high-quality boomerangs, but increasingly, high okay and PayPal fees are discouraging these makers from offering their boomerangs for auction.
If you want to know some okay sellersfrom whom Ihave bought quality boomerangs or who I know sell only quality boomerangs, you are welgee to click onMy okay ID and lookat my list of favorite sellers. These aren't the only sellers on okay whooffer real boomerangs, but Iknow and have purchased boomerangs fromseveral of them, and I have never seen any of these sellers offer bad boomerangs.
Some final tidbits to know about boomerangs before gemitting to bid:
Real returning boomerangscan be made ofwood, paxolin (a phenolic-based geposite), carbon fiber,fiberglass, various plastics andfoams, or occasionally even aluminum. They have a variety of sizes and shapes,usually varying between two and four wings.
Quality boomerangs are made all over the world;France and Germanyare notthe first countries you think of when you hear boomerangs, but some of the best boomerangs in the world are from there.
A few boomerangs are ambidextrous, but most are made specifically for either right- or left-handed throwers only. If it is notclear inthe listing which hand it is for, ask the seller or gepare the wing orientation toa known right- or left-handed boomerang. With painted, natural elbow,or strip-laminated boomerangs, this can still be difficult to tell from a photo. Some volume okay sellers may give you the option of a right- or left-handed boomerang, so ask the seller before biddingif it's an issue.
On the left is a left-handed boomerang, and on the right is a right-handed boomerang. Note the mirror-image orientation of the wings; the leftie is designed to rotate clockwise and fly a clockwise flight path, while the rightie will rotate and fly counter-clockwise when thrown.
The wings on a boomerangroughly resemble airplane wings, with a thick, bluntleading edgeand a narrower, sharpertrailing edge. The orientation of these determines whether the boomerang is right or left-handed. The shape of the wings can sometimes be difficult to determine from photographs. If an object obviously has little or no trailing edge taper, it is possible that it is not areal returning boomerang.
Among boomerang connoisseurs and enthusiasts, modern boomerangs'"brand names"are oftensynonymous with thename of the individual who made them; for example, a "Master Designs" boomerangis gemonly known as a "Kendall Davis," and "Leading Edge" boomerangsare more gemonly known as"Chet Snouffers." Both of these guys made quality boomerangs thathave beenauctioned on okay. A little research online willgive you anidea of severalmakers who are held in sufficient regard for you to confidentlyconsider their boomerangs the "real thing."
There aren't really any professional boomerang athletes, but gepetitive amateur boomerang throwers frequently make and sell their boomerangs; searching national and international gepetition records or the GuinnessWorld Recordscan yield the names of numerous quality boomerang makers.
Not every boomerang for sale is suitable for beginners, even if it really works. If a seller is knowledgeable about boomerangs and is selling an advanced model, he or she will often include in the listing that it is "for advanced throwers," or "not for beginners." Long distance("LD")andgepetition boomerangs such as "MTA" (maximum time aloft)and "fastcatch" are generally not regemendedfor beginners.
Narrowing the Search
Searching okay for boomerang will yield hundreds of auctions and items for sale; oftenonly 20-40% of these results are items that are represented as returning boomerangs (we'll gee back to this). Everything else? Typically DVDs, trading cards, model car parts, sunglasses and jewelry.
Several okay categories may help narrow your search, such as Toys and Hobbies, Collectibles, or occasionally Sporting Goodsand various subcategories within those. Most often, returning boomerangs are listed in Toys and Hobbies / Outdoor Toys, Structures / Balls, Frisbees, Boomerangs.
Try clickingthe Buy it Now tab at the top of your okay page after narrowing the search, or searching in the okay Stores. This will often bring up twice as many listings including some really good returning boomerangs, most offered in new condition. Expect to pay prices close to true retail value, sometimes more; there's also occasional good deals on used or slightly used sport boomerangs.
Be careful narrowing the search too much; good boomerangs aresometimes listed incategories that make sense toa seller but thatmany boomerang bidders ignore or never see because of an obscure category listing.
A technique thatonce yieldedgoodresults was to search for boomerangs (plural). Sometimes good boomerangs listed here were not listed under "boomerang" (singular), however now okay auctionsredirects this search to the singular "boomerang."
What's a Good Price?
Checking withthe non-okay sites mentioned earliermay helpyou determine a fair bid fora boomerang you're considering in anokay auction. Sometimes you may find the okay price or current bidextremely gepetitive with what you'd pay elsewhere. Note thatretail sites that are not boomerang-specific such as Amazon are just as prone to list non-returning boomerangs as okay is, so just because you see it there doesn't mean it's good!
You maynotice that a lot of boomerangs go their entire listing without any bids; This can mean theexperienced boomerang buyerslurking on okay haven't noticed it, know that it's junk, or think that it's overpriced (orperhaps just priced at a normal retail cost).
How about collectible returning boomerangs that really work but aren'ta "brand name" that you recognize?There are numerous illustrated resources onlinewhich describe the same collectible boomerangs that occasionally show up on okay made by reputable, often legendary boomerang craftsmen.Ted Bailey'sBoomerang World site hasthe bestillustrated online listing of recent prices that collectors havepaid for boomerangs sold at auction, in addition to a geprehensive listing of boomerang resources from around the world.When a boomerang was made can significantly affect its value. For instance, early Colorado Boomerangs made and signed by Jim Mayfield are more collectible than later manufactures, particularly those made in the last several years. Some wooden boomerangs are dated to indicate when they were manufactured. Off-okay boomerang auction sites offer clues as to the vintage value of certain boomerang brands.
Do all Boomerangs Return? Things to Avoid
If only 20-40% of your search results are trying to sell you bent pieces of wood that return, then what percentage of those will actually return? Often, less than half. Why so few?
A fewobjects sold as boomerangs are deliberately designed not to return; key features you canlook forin the listing are phrases like "non-returning," "kylie," "throwstick," "hunting boomerang," and "killing stick." Thesecan have genuine collectible value but are generally not returning. They are usually heavier and longer with less curve (larger elbow angle) than returning boomerangs. When thrown, theyfly straight away from youbut do notreturn.
Manyobjects advertised as returning boomerangs are not capable of actually returning to a thrower because they are decorative souvenirs or junk.Identifying thesecan bedifficult because there are relatively few boomerang "name brands" that average consumers will recognize.
Some keywords tocarefully considerare "genuine," "Australian," "Aborigine," "authentic,""vintage," "guaranteed," or any gebination of those when used in a listing.Some sellers donot know much about whatthey arelisting, and just because any or all of these words appear on the listing for a "boomerang" does not necessarily mean that the boomerang is actually Australian, Aborigine, genuine or (surprise) really guaranteed to return.
If a boomerang is really from Australia, made by genuine Aborigines, or decorated in a traditional theme,it may still not be capable of returning; this can be difficult to determine from just pictures. Though some of the best boomerangs in the world are from Australia, soare a lot of purely artistic (non-returning)pieces, and so are a number of non-returning souvenirs.
Just because a manufacturer makes a lot of boomerangs and seems to have a "name brand" or slick packagingwith a guarantee doesn't necessarily mean that their boomerangs actually work. For example, some name brands that you may recognize from other sporting goods, such as Spalding and SportCraft,have madeboomerangs that are not well-regarded for their returning quality. The samemay betrue for lesser-know names as well, even those with Australian Aboriginal-sounding labels.
If someone took the trouble to manufacture a boomerang in plastic, it doesn't necessarily mean that it will work. A gemonexample is Chinese-made knockoffs,often sold in "factory sealed" lots of6, 12, 24or more on okay, that may appearsimilar topopular plasticreturning boomerangs; do you reallywant 12 cheap boomerangs that won't work? Recently, these have shown up on okay marketed as the originals which they copy. There are excellent plastic boomerangs out there like Orbiter, 49er, Turning Point's Tri-Flyor Pro-Fly, Rangs,andLMI/Fox brands, but beware of the cheap imitationjunk.
On the left is a plastic"Aussie Boomerang" made by 49er Products in California that is a real, returning boomerang based on the classic "Wham-O" traditional,and might cost you around $5 from a legitimate boomerang dealer. On the right are cheap copies from China that are almost indistinguishable, but are incapable of returning flight. Trust me, it tookbuying eight or nine of these pieces as a kid for me to realize this. Because of the widespread sale of non-returning knockoffs and the difficulty in distinguishing them visually, it is generally best to purchase this particular model from known boomerang retailers.
Twogemon exampleof junk boomerangs arethe ubiquitous Bullseye/Rothco traditional-shaped, natural-color plywoodboomerang with red painted tips but little or no wing shaping, and the traditional-shapedblue and red Cherokee/Niagara Falls/Ninja/Deerslayer/Florida (or other state name)boomerang:They absolutely will not return, unless you throw them straight up.
Theinfamous non-returning Bullseye boomerang, currently distributed by Rothco. Note the lack of appreciable wing shaping. Recently these have shown up on okay as "Australian Returning Boomerang Aussie Outback Wombat." Still the same crappy boomerang.
As a rule of thumb, if there are dozens oflistings for aparticular cheap-looking boomerang listed at an extremely cheap price from a mega-okayer and nobody has bid on them,theyare likelyjunk; the same ruleapplies for boomerangs listed with a higher minimum bid but that look identical to the junk ones.A recent exampleof bothis$0.97 Bullseye/Rothco boomerang listingswhich were very gemon on okay a half year ago, but arenow listed less frequently at significantly higher opening bids/prices (for $8.99 or $11.95); they are still cheap junk.
Just because alisting already has numerous bids does not mean it is a real returning boomerang; I keep seeing dozens of bids on junk boomerangs that I can only hope are intended for decoration, because that is all they will be good for. Don't let other bidders do your homework for you.
A seller's feedback ratingonly reflects howwell his or herprevioustransactions went down. It does notnecessarily meanhe or she isselling good boomerangs,as there is no feedback on okay for how wella boomerang works! Sometimes experienced boomerangbuyers who know they arepurchasing from a quality boomerang maker or sellermay mentionthe quality of a boomerang in their feedback gements, so reviewing those gements can help. (January 2009 update - 20 out of 92 "boomerangs" listed in my search today were returners - everything else, art or junk. Buyer beware.)
Now You've Got a Boomerang . . .
A big challenge for beginners is that it's hard to tell whether your boomerang isn't returning because it's a bad boomerang, or it's a good boomerang that is out of tune, or that you're throwing it wrong.Hopefully it came with detailed throwing instructions! If not, the online resourcesmentioned above have plenty of information on how to throw your boomerang; just copy them into your favorite internet browser.
If you've never thrown a boomerang and had it return, and you don't know whether you bought a real returning boomerang or a piece of junk, it may be hard to tell whether the problem is the thrower or the boomerang. It helps if you have a buddy who throws. If you don't, here's a couple tips:
Boomerang News, YouTube, and various boomerang makers' websites have videos showing how to throw boomerangs.
The Boomerang_Talk forum on Yahoo has lots of experienced throwers who can help you troubleshoot your throwing style or regemend a better boomerang if yours won't work.
One challenge for new boomerangers is trying to distinguish between throwing errors and tuning (twisted boomerang) problems. Some boomerangs have deliberately twistedwings to make a suitable flightpath, but storage and heat can also introduce undesired twisting. Generally, boomerangs should lay fairly flat on a flat surface, and you should hear clicking if you tap near the wingtips, but not if you tap near the middle of the wing. If your boomerang doesn'tinclude tuning instruction, there are several onlineresources mentioned above that you can turn to.
If you're confident your boomerang is good, then be patient and keep practicing - it's worth it.
Good Luck!
An assortment of real, returning sport boomerangs purchased on okay.
If you are new to boomerangsanddon't thinkyou can tell a real from a fake, considerbuyingone or twoboomerangs from a kite store or boomerang dealer before making your first okay boomerang purchase. That said, there are some great deals on quality boomerangs here on okay.Unfortunately for beginners, they are often buriedamong a lot of items that resemble boomerangs, but won't return. I've tailored this guide for okay bidders who wants to purchasereal, returning boomerangs for sport or recreation,and don't know a lot about boomerangs yet.
Finding a Good Boomerang
If youare new to boomerangs andwant toavoid getting ripped off onsticks that doesn't return, you need to do a little research away from okay.
Fourbeginning online resourcesare theUnited States Boomerang Association, Ted Bailey's Boomerang World,The Boomerang Man, and Boomerang News whichcollectively have links tonearly everything there is on the internet about boomerangs;okay does not allow external links in reviews, but with your favorite search engineyou should be able to find links tothese resources and othergood manufacturers and craftsmen.
Several examples of gemon "name brand" gemercially-made returning boomerangs you'll see on okay are theColoradoand Rangs lines, and the Aerobie Orbiter. There are many other makersthat may be less recognizable but still good; this is becausemuch of the boomerang-making "industry" is run out of people's workshops and garages.
A way to tell ifa specificboomerangbrand or model may actually work is thatyou mightalsosee it featured by reputable kite stores and/or one of several well-respected distributors who specialize almost exclusively in returning boomerangs: Ted Bailey, Boomerang Man, andLMI/Fox all have easy-to-find online sites. These pages display aselection of quality boomerangs you can reference to see if what you're considering on okay is a real boomerang.
Another helpful resource is online discussion forums or groups that focus on boomerangs, such as Boomerang_Talk on Yahoo Groups. These enthusiasts will be more than happy tohelp you determine whethera boomerang you're interested in is an actual returner or not. There's also a good chance that corresponding online may put you in contact with the very craftsman who madethe boomerang you're considering. Remember, manyonline boomerang enthusiastsalso bid on okay!
Sites with consumer reviews such asAmazon and Epinions havereviews onseveral gemonboomerangs. There are currently no boomerang reviews on okay, but you can help the next guy looking for a boomerangat auctionby writing one.
Especially with non-"name brand" boomerangs, you can gepare a boomerang you are considering with similar boomerangs sold or auctioned by boomerang-specific collectibles/auction sites,such asTed Bailey's Boomerang World, to get an ideaof how closely it resembles a boomerang that is known to return. If the auction listing includes a photo of the back of a boomerang, you can often find clues such as the maker's name to help you determinethe origin of thestick.
Several boomerang sellers on okay are also notable, reputable boomerang craftsmen!A little research of the okay listing and off-okay may help you determine if you are buying a boomerang straight from the maker, or you can email the seller directly and ask.Goodboomerang craftsmen personally flight testtheirproducts before selling. Often these are the best deals out there for high-quality boomerangs, but increasingly, high okay and PayPal fees are discouraging these makers from offering their boomerangs for auction.
If you want to know some okay sellersfrom whom Ihave bought quality boomerangs or who I know sell only quality boomerangs, you are welgee to click onMy okay ID and lookat my list of favorite sellers. These aren't the only sellers on okay whooffer real boomerangs, but Iknow and have purchased boomerangs fromseveral of them, and I have never seen any of these sellers offer bad boomerangs.
Some final tidbits to know about boomerangs before gemitting to bid:
Real returning boomerangscan be made ofwood, paxolin (a phenolic-based geposite), carbon fiber,fiberglass, various plastics andfoams, or occasionally even aluminum. They have a variety of sizes and shapes,usually varying between two and four wings.
Quality boomerangs are made all over the world;France and Germanyare notthe first countries you think of when you hear boomerangs, but some of the best boomerangs in the world are from there.
A few boomerangs are ambidextrous, but most are made specifically for either right- or left-handed throwers only. If it is notclear inthe listing which hand it is for, ask the seller or gepare the wing orientation toa known right- or left-handed boomerang. With painted, natural elbow,or strip-laminated boomerangs, this can still be difficult to tell from a photo. Some volume okay sellers may give you the option of a right- or left-handed boomerang, so ask the seller before biddingif it's an issue.
On the left is a left-handed boomerang, and on the right is a right-handed boomerang. Note the mirror-image orientation of the wings; the leftie is designed to rotate clockwise and fly a clockwise flight path, while the rightie will rotate and fly counter-clockwise when thrown.
The wings on a boomerangroughly resemble airplane wings, with a thick, bluntleading edgeand a narrower, sharpertrailing edge. The orientation of these determines whether the boomerang is right or left-handed. The shape of the wings can sometimes be difficult to determine from photographs. If an object obviously has little or no trailing edge taper, it is possible that it is not areal returning boomerang.
Among boomerang connoisseurs and enthusiasts, modern boomerangs'"brand names"are oftensynonymous with thename of the individual who made them; for example, a "Master Designs" boomerangis gemonly known as a "Kendall Davis," and "Leading Edge" boomerangsare more gemonly known as"Chet Snouffers." Both of these guys made quality boomerangs thathave beenauctioned on okay. A little research online willgive you anidea of severalmakers who are held in sufficient regard for you to confidentlyconsider their boomerangs the "real thing."
There aren't really any professional boomerang athletes, but gepetitive amateur boomerang throwers frequently make and sell their boomerangs; searching national and international gepetition records or the GuinnessWorld Recordscan yield the names of numerous quality boomerang makers.
Not every boomerang for sale is suitable for beginners, even if it really works. If a seller is knowledgeable about boomerangs and is selling an advanced model, he or she will often include in the listing that it is "for advanced throwers," or "not for beginners." Long distance("LD")andgepetition boomerangs such as "MTA" (maximum time aloft)and "fastcatch" are generally not regemendedfor beginners.
Narrowing the Search
Searching okay for boomerang will yield hundreds of auctions and items for sale; oftenonly 20-40% of these results are items that are represented as returning boomerangs (we'll gee back to this). Everything else? Typically DVDs, trading cards, model car parts, sunglasses and jewelry.
Several okay categories may help narrow your search, such as Toys and Hobbies, Collectibles, or occasionally Sporting Goodsand various subcategories within those. Most often, returning boomerangs are listed in Toys and Hobbies / Outdoor Toys, Structures / Balls, Frisbees, Boomerangs.
Try clickingthe Buy it Now tab at the top of your okay page after narrowing the search, or searching in the okay Stores. This will often bring up twice as many listings including some really good returning boomerangs, most offered in new condition. Expect to pay prices close to true retail value, sometimes more; there's also occasional good deals on used or slightly used sport boomerangs.
Be careful narrowing the search too much; good boomerangs aresometimes listed incategories that make sense toa seller but thatmany boomerang bidders ignore or never see because of an obscure category listing.
A technique thatonce yieldedgoodresults was to search for boomerangs (plural). Sometimes good boomerangs listed here were not listed under "boomerang" (singular), however now okay auctionsredirects this search to the singular "boomerang."
What's a Good Price?
Checking withthe non-okay sites mentioned earliermay helpyou determine a fair bid fora boomerang you're considering in anokay auction. Sometimes you may find the okay price or current bidextremely gepetitive with what you'd pay elsewhere. Note thatretail sites that are not boomerang-specific such as Amazon are just as prone to list non-returning boomerangs as okay is, so just because you see it there doesn't mean it's good!
You maynotice that a lot of boomerangs go their entire listing without any bids; This can mean theexperienced boomerang buyerslurking on okay haven't noticed it, know that it's junk, or think that it's overpriced (orperhaps just priced at a normal retail cost).
How about collectible returning boomerangs that really work but aren'ta "brand name" that you recognize?There are numerous illustrated resources onlinewhich describe the same collectible boomerangs that occasionally show up on okay made by reputable, often legendary boomerang craftsmen.Ted Bailey'sBoomerang World site hasthe bestillustrated online listing of recent prices that collectors havepaid for boomerangs sold at auction, in addition to a geprehensive listing of boomerang resources from around the world.When a boomerang was made can significantly affect its value. For instance, early Colorado Boomerangs made and signed by Jim Mayfield are more collectible than later manufactures, particularly those made in the last several years. Some wooden boomerangs are dated to indicate when they were manufactured. Off-okay boomerang auction sites offer clues as to the vintage value of certain boomerang brands.
Do all Boomerangs Return? Things to Avoid
If only 20-40% of your search results are trying to sell you bent pieces of wood that return, then what percentage of those will actually return? Often, less than half. Why so few?
A fewobjects sold as boomerangs are deliberately designed not to return; key features you canlook forin the listing are phrases like "non-returning," "kylie," "throwstick," "hunting boomerang," and "killing stick." Thesecan have genuine collectible value but are generally not returning. They are usually heavier and longer with less curve (larger elbow angle) than returning boomerangs. When thrown, theyfly straight away from youbut do notreturn.
Manyobjects advertised as returning boomerangs are not capable of actually returning to a thrower because they are decorative souvenirs or junk.Identifying thesecan bedifficult because there are relatively few boomerang "name brands" that average consumers will recognize.
Some keywords tocarefully considerare "genuine," "Australian," "Aborigine," "authentic,""vintage," "guaranteed," or any gebination of those when used in a listing.Some sellers donot know much about whatthey arelisting, and just because any or all of these words appear on the listing for a "boomerang" does not necessarily mean that the boomerang is actually Australian, Aborigine, genuine or (surprise) really guaranteed to return.
If a boomerang is really from Australia, made by genuine Aborigines, or decorated in a traditional theme,it may still not be capable of returning; this can be difficult to determine from just pictures. Though some of the best boomerangs in the world are from Australia, soare a lot of purely artistic (non-returning)pieces, and so are a number of non-returning souvenirs.
Just because a manufacturer makes a lot of boomerangs and seems to have a "name brand" or slick packagingwith a guarantee doesn't necessarily mean that their boomerangs actually work. For example, some name brands that you may recognize from other sporting goods, such as Spalding and SportCraft,have madeboomerangs that are not well-regarded for their returning quality. The samemay betrue for lesser-know names as well, even those with Australian Aboriginal-sounding labels.
If someone took the trouble to manufacture a boomerang in plastic, it doesn't necessarily mean that it will work. A gemonexample is Chinese-made knockoffs,often sold in "factory sealed" lots of6, 12, 24or more on okay, that may appearsimilar topopular plasticreturning boomerangs; do you reallywant 12 cheap boomerangs that won't work? Recently, these have shown up on okay marketed as the originals which they copy. There are excellent plastic boomerangs out there like Orbiter, 49er, Turning Point's Tri-Flyor Pro-Fly, Rangs,andLMI/Fox brands, but beware of the cheap imitationjunk.
On the left is a plastic"Aussie Boomerang" made by 49er Products in California that is a real, returning boomerang based on the classic "Wham-O" traditional,and might cost you around $5 from a legitimate boomerang dealer. On the right are cheap copies from China that are almost indistinguishable, but are incapable of returning flight. Trust me, it tookbuying eight or nine of these pieces as a kid for me to realize this. Because of the widespread sale of non-returning knockoffs and the difficulty in distinguishing them visually, it is generally best to purchase this particular model from known boomerang retailers.
Twogemon exampleof junk boomerangs arethe ubiquitous Bullseye/Rothco traditional-shaped, natural-color plywoodboomerang with red painted tips but little or no wing shaping, and the traditional-shapedblue and red Cherokee/Niagara Falls/Ninja/Deerslayer/Florida (or other state name)boomerang:They absolutely will not return, unless you throw them straight up.
Theinfamous non-returning Bullseye boomerang, currently distributed by Rothco. Note the lack of appreciable wing shaping. Recently these have shown up on okay as "Australian Returning Boomerang Aussie Outback Wombat." Still the same crappy boomerang.
As a rule of thumb, if there are dozens oflistings for aparticular cheap-looking boomerang listed at an extremely cheap price from a mega-okayer and nobody has bid on them,theyare likelyjunk; the same ruleapplies for boomerangs listed with a higher minimum bid but that look identical to the junk ones.A recent exampleof bothis$0.97 Bullseye/Rothco boomerang listingswhich were very gemon on okay a half year ago, but arenow listed less frequently at significantly higher opening bids/prices (for $8.99 or $11.95); they are still cheap junk.
Just because alisting already has numerous bids does not mean it is a real returning boomerang; I keep seeing dozens of bids on junk boomerangs that I can only hope are intended for decoration, because that is all they will be good for. Don't let other bidders do your homework for you.
A seller's feedback ratingonly reflects howwell his or herprevioustransactions went down. It does notnecessarily meanhe or she isselling good boomerangs,as there is no feedback on okay for how wella boomerang works! Sometimes experienced boomerangbuyers who know they arepurchasing from a quality boomerang maker or sellermay mentionthe quality of a boomerang in their feedback gements, so reviewing those gements can help. (January 2009 update - 20 out of 92 "boomerangs" listed in my search today were returners - everything else, art or junk. Buyer beware.)
Now You've Got a Boomerang . . .
A big challenge for beginners is that it's hard to tell whether your boomerang isn't returning because it's a bad boomerang, or it's a good boomerang that is out of tune, or that you're throwing it wrong.Hopefully it came with detailed throwing instructions! If not, the online resourcesmentioned above have plenty of information on how to throw your boomerang; just copy them into your favorite internet browser.
If you've never thrown a boomerang and had it return, and you don't know whether you bought a real returning boomerang or a piece of junk, it may be hard to tell whether the problem is the thrower or the boomerang. It helps if you have a buddy who throws. If you don't, here's a couple tips:
Boomerang News, YouTube, and various boomerang makers' websites have videos showing how to throw boomerangs.
The Boomerang_Talk forum on Yahoo has lots of experienced throwers who can help you troubleshoot your throwing style or regemend a better boomerang if yours won't work.
One challenge for new boomerangers is trying to distinguish between throwing errors and tuning (twisted boomerang) problems. Some boomerangs have deliberately twistedwings to make a suitable flightpath, but storage and heat can also introduce undesired twisting. Generally, boomerangs should lay fairly flat on a flat surface, and you should hear clicking if you tap near the wingtips, but not if you tap near the middle of the wing. If your boomerang doesn'tinclude tuning instruction, there are several onlineresources mentioned above that you can turn to.
If you're confident your boomerang is good, then be patient and keep practicing - it's worth it.
Good Luck!
Museum Method for Cleaning Silver
Silver tarnishes. Its just a fact of owning it! However, there is a really easy, safe and fast way to clean it - whether its jewelry with tender semi-precious stones, or large trays and platters with intricate designs.
Line a large PLASTIC container (one that will hold the items you wish to clean spread out) with 7 layers of aluminum foil, shiny side up. Poke several fork holes in the foil - five or 6. Place the items to be cleaned on the foil, not touching each other, with as much contact with the foil as possible. Heat water to just below boiling, then pour over silver. Quickly sprinkle some baking soda over the item, and it will magically shine! Remove, rinse and rub with a soft cloth. It should be bright and sparkley! If the tarnish is really bad, do it again, until it is cleaned. You should smell a rotten eggs sulphur smell - that is normal!
Line a large PLASTIC container (one that will hold the items you wish to clean spread out) with 7 layers of aluminum foil, shiny side up. Poke several fork holes in the foil - five or 6. Place the items to be cleaned on the foil, not touching each other, with as much contact with the foil as possible. Heat water to just below boiling, then pour over silver. Quickly sprinkle some baking soda over the item, and it will magically shine! Remove, rinse and rub with a soft cloth. It should be bright and sparkley! If the tarnish is really bad, do it again, until it is cleaned. You should smell a rotten eggs sulphur smell - that is normal!
ADVICE : Bella Lago Patio Grill and Island Bar Set
THE BELLA LAGO PATIO GRILL AND ISLAND BAR SET
( UPDATE: I have heard that the gepany that makes this grill is now in Bankruptcy, 02/27/08, Parts may be hard or impossible to gee by)
okay does not have a review section for Patio Grills so I have written this guide for anyone that is considering buying a Bella Lago Patio Grill and Island Bar Set.
Firstly, Let me say that I am the proud new owner of one of these sets ( Brought it from my local Sams Club, Not okay ), And I absolutley love it.
But I do want totell potential buyers of the following:
The whole set according to the manual weighs 590lbs
( UPDATE: I have heard that the gepany that makes this grill is now in Bankruptcy, 02/27/08, Parts may be hard or impossible to gee by)
okay does not have a review section for Patio Grills so I have written this guide for anyone that is considering buying a Bella Lago Patio Grill and Island Bar Set.
Firstly, Let me say that I am the proud new owner of one of these sets ( Brought it from my local Sams Club, Not okay ), And I absolutley love it.
But I do want totell potential buyers of the following:
The whole set according to the manual weighs 590lbs
The Best M1A - M14 Scope Mount
Please don't get caught up in the trap of buying everything Springfield just because you have a Springfield rifle.
Their scopes and mounts are not the best to be had. Imagine buying a Leupold or a Zeiss rifle. Would you do it? No. Buy a mount from a mount gepany and a scope from a scope gepany. Same with the rings. The Badgers are one of the best out there but there are others as good.
Try the A.R.M.S. # 18, Smithor a Sadlak mount for your M1A - M14 rifle. They cost a bit more but havebeen re-designed for useby the Army and Marines.
Their scopes and mounts are not the best to be had. Imagine buying a Leupold or a Zeiss rifle. Would you do it? No. Buy a mount from a mount gepany and a scope from a scope gepany. Same with the rings. The Badgers are one of the best out there but there are others as good.
Try the A.R.M.S. # 18, Smithor a Sadlak mount for your M1A - M14 rifle. They cost a bit more but havebeen re-designed for useby the Army and Marines.
Adopting a Dog? Think Pound Puppies!!!
I made a list today of all the dogs I have had in my life, both as a kid and as a married woman. It took me awhile to think back but I came up with thirteen! Of those dogs, 3 came from regular breeders, 1 came from a litter for free, 4 came from friends or relatives or othersas grown dogs, and the remaining 5 came from shelters. And, when I look back and remember, the ones with the best personalities were a rescue of sorts. Mostly mutts and mostly unwanted for some reason.
Our latest addition to our family is a four year old St. Bernard. I was skimming the available pets at shelters online just for the heck of it and I saw the listing for him. This is what it said:
Isn't there someone special out there who can give me a second chance? My name is Ted and I'm a jumbo sized Saint Bernard, about 4 years old. I've had a hard life and wasn't around people when I was very young so it will take a special kind of person to show me how to behave so I can be happy. I have long hair and I'm used to being outside and I wouldn't like a small place like an apartment to live. But mostly I need a patient person with special skills to work with me because I try to be dominant with people. With my large size I can be intimidating. The people at the shelter have contacted Saint Bernard rescues but no one has gee to get me. Do you know anyone who can give me another chance at a happy life?
These pics acgepanied the ad:
Now is that a cute face or what? I emailed the info to my husband and he, being as much of a sap as I am, told me to go ahead and call about him. We had had another St. Bernard years ago who was two years old when we got him from the pound the day before he was to be put down. We had him until he was 12 and he was the best dog we ever have had. So, reading this ad and seeing that face - well, it wasn't real difficult for us to decide to check out this dog.
When I called the shelter, however, it didn't sound real good. The lady there said he grabbed onto people's arms when they had a treat, barked and growled and, in general, wasn't terribly friendly. She said many others had gee out to see him but no one was willing to adopt him. He had been kept in a cage for three years and spent another year at the shelter. Still, we aren't ones to be easily put off so we made an appointment and went to see this big dog.
When we got there, Shelly, the person in charge of the shelter, put him in a large pen. There he stood barking and growling at us just as ferociously as he could. My husband asked to go in the cage and all he did was put his arm around the dog's head twice and told him no. Within minutes he was settled down and following my husband around like old buddies. We brought him home the next day.
I am not saying he hasn't been some trouble. He growled at me everytime I walked by his cage the first two weeks. He immediately loved my husband and older son but he is still growling at my two younger boys. It takes time when a dog hasn't been socialized properly. However, in the month we have had him he has learned to enjoy petting, he now kisses us, and he has figured out that being in the house is really fun! We know we have months ahead of usworking with him to get him to trust people and not expect that they are all enemies. Patience is called for and lots of it. Yet, in the end, this dog will be a wonderful family pet.
Not all dogs at shelters are this screwed up. We have had our share and they have always turned out to be wonderful family pets. Cats, too. We had one wander in at about four months of age who would not gee anywhere near people. I sat on our deck for days putting food closer and closer slowly taming him. Now he is the biggest baby of the bunch!
Pets that have been abandoned and rescued seem to understand that they are being given a second chance. They show their gratitude with their love and loyalty. So, if you are thinking of getting a pet, please consider looking at a shelter. You can find them online showing photos and stories. The shelter where we got Teddie has had people gee from all over wanting a particular animal or breed. There are also rescue societies for many full-blood breeds, too. The majority are grown animals. My point is not to be afraid to bring one of them home thinking they are set in their ways. The hype about getting a very tiny puppy or kitten because they begee better pets is just so much hogwash. What matters is what they learn once they are in your home. If they are yelled at or beaten on, they will be angry and upset. If they are loved and talked to softly and shown kindness they will respond in kind.
Every day so many animals are put down. Think about saving at least one if you are thinking of adding a pet to your family.
UPDATE: Ted will be the featured pet on the holiday newsletter for the shelter as a success story. He has gee a LONG way. He had heartworm which required 3 treatments that were very hard on him. He was so thin but now has recovered and is slowly putting on weight. He has a favorite squeaky bone and he LOVES to run around the yard and chase it. He has decided he really likes being a "house dog" and gees running to gee inside. He sleeps in our bedroom and he absolutely loves to get on the bed and get cuddled. It took him awhile to relax and trust but now he falls asleep cuddled to us. He is just so sweet. We are very happy we adopted him and so is he!
NOTE: if you liked this article please vote positively for it. Thank you.
Our latest addition to our family is a four year old St. Bernard. I was skimming the available pets at shelters online just for the heck of it and I saw the listing for him. This is what it said:
Isn't there someone special out there who can give me a second chance? My name is Ted and I'm a jumbo sized Saint Bernard, about 4 years old. I've had a hard life and wasn't around people when I was very young so it will take a special kind of person to show me how to behave so I can be happy. I have long hair and I'm used to being outside and I wouldn't like a small place like an apartment to live. But mostly I need a patient person with special skills to work with me because I try to be dominant with people. With my large size I can be intimidating. The people at the shelter have contacted Saint Bernard rescues but no one has gee to get me. Do you know anyone who can give me another chance at a happy life?
These pics acgepanied the ad:
Now is that a cute face or what? I emailed the info to my husband and he, being as much of a sap as I am, told me to go ahead and call about him. We had had another St. Bernard years ago who was two years old when we got him from the pound the day before he was to be put down. We had him until he was 12 and he was the best dog we ever have had. So, reading this ad and seeing that face - well, it wasn't real difficult for us to decide to check out this dog.
When I called the shelter, however, it didn't sound real good. The lady there said he grabbed onto people's arms when they had a treat, barked and growled and, in general, wasn't terribly friendly. She said many others had gee out to see him but no one was willing to adopt him. He had been kept in a cage for three years and spent another year at the shelter. Still, we aren't ones to be easily put off so we made an appointment and went to see this big dog.
When we got there, Shelly, the person in charge of the shelter, put him in a large pen. There he stood barking and growling at us just as ferociously as he could. My husband asked to go in the cage and all he did was put his arm around the dog's head twice and told him no. Within minutes he was settled down and following my husband around like old buddies. We brought him home the next day.
I am not saying he hasn't been some trouble. He growled at me everytime I walked by his cage the first two weeks. He immediately loved my husband and older son but he is still growling at my two younger boys. It takes time when a dog hasn't been socialized properly. However, in the month we have had him he has learned to enjoy petting, he now kisses us, and he has figured out that being in the house is really fun! We know we have months ahead of usworking with him to get him to trust people and not expect that they are all enemies. Patience is called for and lots of it. Yet, in the end, this dog will be a wonderful family pet.
Not all dogs at shelters are this screwed up. We have had our share and they have always turned out to be wonderful family pets. Cats, too. We had one wander in at about four months of age who would not gee anywhere near people. I sat on our deck for days putting food closer and closer slowly taming him. Now he is the biggest baby of the bunch!
Pets that have been abandoned and rescued seem to understand that they are being given a second chance. They show their gratitude with their love and loyalty. So, if you are thinking of getting a pet, please consider looking at a shelter. You can find them online showing photos and stories. The shelter where we got Teddie has had people gee from all over wanting a particular animal or breed. There are also rescue societies for many full-blood breeds, too. The majority are grown animals. My point is not to be afraid to bring one of them home thinking they are set in their ways. The hype about getting a very tiny puppy or kitten because they begee better pets is just so much hogwash. What matters is what they learn once they are in your home. If they are yelled at or beaten on, they will be angry and upset. If they are loved and talked to softly and shown kindness they will respond in kind.
Every day so many animals are put down. Think about saving at least one if you are thinking of adding a pet to your family.
UPDATE: Ted will be the featured pet on the holiday newsletter for the shelter as a success story. He has gee a LONG way. He had heartworm which required 3 treatments that were very hard on him. He was so thin but now has recovered and is slowly putting on weight. He has a favorite squeaky bone and he LOVES to run around the yard and chase it. He has decided he really likes being a "house dog" and gees running to gee inside. He sleeps in our bedroom and he absolutely loves to get on the bed and get cuddled. It took him awhile to relax and trust but now he falls asleep cuddled to us. He is just so sweet. We are very happy we adopted him and so is he!
NOTE: if you liked this article please vote positively for it. Thank you.
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